From the Notebook

  • Cherokee County Courthouse – Murphy, North Carolina (1892-1895)

    Bruce & Morgan. Cherokee County Courthouse (1892-1895). Murphy, North Carolina.

    The Background

    The following article was published in The State Chronicle in 1890, and includes an illustration and description of the Cherokee County Courthouse in Murphy, North Carolina, designed by Bruce & Morgan.

    A vernacular interpretation of the Romanesque Revival style, the building depicted in the illustration appears to be a competent effort by A.C. Bruce, and an updated version of his plan for the Newton County Courthouse in Covington, Georgia, completed in 1884.

    The only questionable elements in the otherwise cohesive composition are the odd pediment and oversized half-round window above the entrance portico. This wasn’t an exceptional design, by any means, but generally well-proportioned and tastefully executed.

    Location of Cherokee County Courthouse

    The article states that the county’s leaders were unsure whether the courthouse should be built of brick with marble trimmings or “an entire marble face,” a preposterous question for a rural jurisdiction in the Deep South.

    Marble was so cost-prohibitive in the late 19th century that even Atlantans couldn’t afford it as a primary building material, much less the inhabitants of a dirt-poor county in the hills of Carolina.

    Unsurprisingly, the finished courthouse was primarily built with pressed brick, while the foundation and steps were composed of marble.1 The initial cost of the project was reported as $21,5002 by one source and $22,5753 by another, but other reports estimated it at $40,000.4 5 6

    It’s difficult to find a definitive date for the building’s completion, but the cornerstone was laid in July 1891,7 and most sources state it was finished in 1892, which would be a reasonable timeframe.

    Despite this article’s claim that the courthouse would “stand the storm of ages”, the building was destroyed by fire on December 13, 1895,8 less than four years after its completion, although the outer walls were left intact.9

    In early 1896, Bruce & Morgan were hired as architects for the building’s replacement,10 and it appears they essentially replicated the previous design.

    The rebuilt courthouse was also destroyed by fire on January 16, 1926,11 12and replaced with an entirely new structure.13 14

    So much for it being “a monument for centuries to come.”


    Murphy’s New Court House.

    The State Chronicle is glad to be able to present to its readers to day a picture of the new Court House which the Commissioners and Magistrates of Cherokee county have decided to erect at Murphy. It will be a handsome building and an ornament to the town and county, as well as its best advertisement. It is to have a face and trimmings of marble quarried from the Cherokee county quarries. Marble of almost every shade of color is found in Cherokee, and the Western North Carolina Railroad runs in such close proximity to the marble as to enable parties to load it directly from the quarries into the cars. A marble Court House will advertise this marble better than an hundred agents and an hundred newspapers. The Commissioners and Magistrates have not exactly determined whether it shall have an entire marble face, and have advertised for bids with the marble face and only with marble trimming. But they have decided to build it, and it is a decision in which the entire State is interested. It shows that we are going forward. As the Murphy Bulletin well and truly put it: “The Court House will stand the storm of ages and retain its original beauty and magnificence.” The Commissioners and Magistrates have acted wisely, and the Chronicle rejoices that a spirit of faith in the glorious future of their county has been present with them. This marble Court House will be a monument for centuries to come of the wisdom of the men now living in Cherokee.15

    References

    1. “State News.” The Weekly Review (Reidsville, North Carolina). January 21, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    2. “Around Town.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 12, 1891, p. 4. ↩︎
    3. “State News.” The Weekly Review (Reidsville, North Carolina). January 21, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    4. “Building Notes.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 21, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    5. “Murphy’s Marble Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina). December 14, 1895, p. 1. ↩︎
    6. “To Rebuild the Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 7, 1896, p. 1. ↩︎
    7. “Murphy’s Barbecue.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), July 18, 1891, p. 1. ↩︎
    8. “Murphy’s Marble Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina). December 14, 1895, p. 1. ↩︎
    9. “Cherokee County Court House Swept By Disastrous Fire for Second Time In History, Damage Believed $100,000.” The Sunday Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 17, 1926, p. 20. ↩︎
    10. “To Rebuild the Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 7, 1896, p. 1. ↩︎
    11. “Cherokee Courthouse Is Destroyed By Fire”. The Charlotte News (Charlotte, North Carolina), January 16, 1926, p. 1. ↩︎
    12. “Cherokee County Court House Swept By Disastrous Fire for Second Time In History, Damage Believed $100,000.” The Sunday Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 17, 1926, p. 20. ↩︎
    13. “Start Plans For Cherokee Courthouse”. The Asheville Times (Asheville, North Carolina), January 22, 1926, p. 18. ↩︎
    14. “New Courthouse Will Be Built In Cherokee County”. Salisbury Evening Post (Salisbury, North Carolina), January 28, 1926, p. 6. ↩︎
    15. The State Chronicle (Raleigh, North Carolina), March 11, 1890, p. 3. ↩︎

  • The Edge of Fairlie-Poplar – Atlanta

    From left to right: Muse’s Department Storesign, The Bank of Georgia/34 Peachtree (1961), Citizens & Southern National Bank (1901), English-American Building (1898). Fairlie-Poplar, Atlanta.

  • Kundalini

    What a weird time for Kundalini–

    Not that it ever occurs in an appropriate moment.

    The first time it happened, I was on the train to Decatur:

    Out of nowhere, that fiery ball of energy rose from beneath my cock and pulsed through my body in waves.

    The sensation was so overwhelming that I started giggling, desperately trying to muffle the sound.

    I squirmed fitfully as it tickled and tingled for what felt like an hour, although it was probably only a minute or two––

    Time sorta dissipates when it hits.

    The waves make it hard to keep my body erect,

    And I usually end up writhing on the floor.

    A full-body orgasm that lasts for minutes isn’t as pleasurable as it sounds––

    It takes a surprising amount of stamina to receive it.

    The exact nature of Kundalini is a mystery to me,

    But it’s a force that is visceral and real:

    Primal, healing, creative, and boldly erotic.

    My relationship to sex has always been weird;

    Kundalini makes it stranger. 

    I can’t say I mind it.

  • Robert W. Woodruff Library (1982) – Atlanta University Center

    Joseph Amisano of Toombs, Amisano & Wells with J.W. Robinson and Associates, Inc. Robert W. Woodruff Library (1982). Atlanta University Center.1 2 3 4
    Looking at the Robert W. Woodruff Library from the southeast
    South elevation of the Robert W. Woodruff Library
    Windows on the south elevation of the Robert W. Woodruff Library
    Skylight on the east facade of the Robert W. Woodruff Library
    Looking at the Robert W. Woodruff Library from the northeast
    North elevation of the Robert W. Woodruff Library

    References

    1. Dees, Learned and Hunt, Eunice S. “New AUC Library To Open in Jan.” The Atlanta Voice, November 14, 1981, p. 1B. ↩︎
    2. Salyer, Sharon J. “Library Dedication Is Friday At AUC”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 22, 1982, p. 17-A. ↩︎
    3. Barnes, Beverly. “Woodruff Library Is Dedicated”. The Atlanta Journal-The Atlanta Constitution Weekend, April 24, 1982, p. 14-A. ↩︎
    4. Powell, Kay. “Joe Amisano, admired architect”. The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, April 21, 2008, p. B6. ↩︎

  • Public Comfort Building, Oakland Cemetery (1899) – Atlanta

    C. Walter Smith. Public Comfort Building at Oakland Cemetery (1899). Atlanta.

    The Public Comfort Building in Oakland Cemetery is the only surviving work in Atlanta known to have been designed by C. Walter Smith (1865-1910), an architect who worked for at least seven years as a draughtsman and assistant for G.L. Norrman before embarking on a fairly unremarkable solo career.

    Built on a small hill in the western portion of the 48-acre cemetery, this 2-story structure includes a full basement and totals 2,800 square feet.1 The exterior is faced in stucco-covered brick2 and rusticated granite trimmings, and marble flooring3 is used on the front porch and in the basement.

    Modeled after “the old Norman and English castellated churches,”4 the building’s design can be broadly defined as Romanesque, and its focal point is a 50-foot-high crenellated bell tower,5 heavily inspired by similar designs from G.L. Norrman.

    Today, Oakland Cemetery refers to the entire structure as the “Bell Tower”.

    C. Walter Smith. Public Comfort Building at Oakland Cemetery (1899). Atlanta.6

    An illustration from 1899 (pictured above) reveals the building’s original design: a one-story porch topped by battlements originally flanked the south facade, and a porte-cochère to accommodate wagons was attached to the east side.

    Curiously, the final design was reversed, with the porte-cochère moved to the west side of the structure, likely one of “a few slight changes” announced before construction began.7

    Roman arches on the porch and bell tower, and Gothic-style arched windows on the second floor completed the appearance of a small, storybook castle — again, Smith borrowed significantly from Norrman for the aesthetic.

    South facade of the Public Comfort Building

    In its original conception, the building was one of Smith’s better designs. Despite years of training under “the South’s most prominent architect”8 — his words — Smith’s skill never came close to Norman’s high level of artistry, although his work here was at least intriguing.

    Unfortunately, the initial vision was compromised by the later addition of second-floor porches over the front porch and porte-cochère, topped with flat roofs and punctuated by incongruent half-round openings.

    I suspect the porches were added circa 1908, when the cemetery spent $5,000 on a range of improvements9 following its first annual report to the city, which requested $1,000 for “needed changes and repairs in the main building.”10

    The effect of the alterations is detrimental: the upper porches add unnecessary visual mass to the structure and pull focus away from the bell tower, robbing the entire composition of the uplifting, monumental effect Smith originally intended.

    West elevation of the Public Comfort Building

    “Public comfort” was a polite 19th-century euphemism for restrooms, which were originally housed on the ground floor of the structure.

    When the building was completed in October 1899, The Atlanta Journal delicately noted: “Here one now finds a convenience and comfort that was lacking for many years.”11 I guess early visitors just had to hold it — or maybe piss on a grave.

    There were initially six rooms in the building, including a ladies’ parlor and an “apartment for gentlemen.” All six rooms had tiled mantels,12 which was apparently noteworthy. Two of the mantels remain intact.

    The structure also included an office for the cemetery’s sexton,13 and Oakland Cemetery’s website claims the building contained a chapel, with the second floor used as the sexton’s residence. So many uses for such a small structure.

    Second-floor windows on the Public Comfort Building

    Despite its fanciful design, the building was, at heart, purely utilitarian, “suitable for the purposes for which it is intended,”14 as the Journal put it.

    People need to pee, of course, but the building’s other raison d’être was concealed in the basement.15 The structure was built on the site of a converted 2-story farmhouse16 known as the “dead house”17 — you can see where this is going.

    As the Journal explained:

    There is a vault with eight catacombs and sixteen racks. This is as strong and substantial as could be made. For the retention of bodies for any length of time the catacombs will answer every purpose, as they are built to be air-tight for years to come. The racks, as a matter of course, are intended as a temporary place of keeping and are conveniently arranged. When the iron gate to the vault is locked entrance is practically impossible.18

    Front porch of the Public Comfort Building

    Since Oakland is a public cemetery operated by the city of Atlanta, the building was funded by an appropriation from the city council.19 The Atlanta Building Company secured the contract with the lowest bid, and the project’s total cost was $4,600,20 with $650 spent on the stone.21

    Construction on the building was initially slated to begin on April 27, 1899,22 but was apparently delayed until June and completed in four months.23

    Although early plans called for the construction of one or two additional public comfort buildings in the cemetery,24 those never materialized, and this structure remained the only significant public building at the site, altered many times over by piecemeal repairs and alterations.

    When the Historic Oakland Foundation was formed in 1976 to preserve and maintain the cemetery’s historic integrity, the building became office space for the organization, with the ground floor converted into a small visitors center,25 a function that it served for decades.

    East elevation of the Public Comfort Building

    In 2022, as Oakland Cemetery prepared to build a much larger visitors’ center outside its main entrance, the former Public Comfort Building was given a gut renovation designed by Smith Dalia Architects, Atlanta’s finest firm for the adaptive reuse of historic structures.

    The project included tearing out the hodgepodge of rooms on each floor for larger, open spaces, removing god-awful windows added to the second-floor porches, and making necessary accessibility alterations, which altered a portion of the front porch.26 27

    The building reopened later that year28 as an event space: the fallback choice when owners don’t know what to do with a historic structure.

    Following its renovation, the building now appears a little too clean and gleaming — I actually preferred it when it was worn and shabby — but it still has an undeniable anachronistic charm that’s uncommon in Atlanta.

    And as one of just six known extant works by Walter Smith, it’s also a matter of curiosity, if nothing else.

    Bell tower on the Public Comfort Building

    References

    1. Perspectives in Architecture: A new era for Oakland’s historic bell tower – Rough Draft Atlanta ↩︎
    2. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    3. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    4. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    5. ibid. ↩︎
    6. Illustration credit: ibid. ↩︎
    7. “Notice to Contractors.” The Atlanta Journal, April 4, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    8. “A Card.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 1, 1893, p. 10. ↩︎
    9. “Work Of Joyner For Last Two Years Reviewed”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 5, 1909, p. 4. ↩︎
    10. “Cemetery Commission Makes First Report”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 5, 1908, p. 8. ↩︎
    11. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    12. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    13. ibid. ↩︎
    14. ibid. ↩︎
    15. ibid. ↩︎
    16. Sections and Landmarks – Oakland Cemetery ↩︎
    17. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    18. ibid. ↩︎
    19. ibid. ↩︎
    20. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    21. “Mosley & Co. Get $390”. The Atlanta Journal, May 25, 1900, p. 5. ↩︎
    22. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    23. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    24. “Cemetery Commission Makes First Report”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 5, 1908, p. 8. ↩︎
    25. Perspectives in Architecture: A new era for Oakland’s historic bell tower – Rough Draft Atlanta ↩︎
    26. ibid. ↩︎
    27. Historic Oakland Cemetery Bell Tower – The Georgia Trust ↩︎
    28. Ribbon cutting to be held for Oakland Cemetery’s refurbished Bell Tower – Rough Draft Atlanta ↩︎
  • Bloch Building, Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art (2007) – Kansas City, Missouri

    Steven Holl Architects with BNIM Architects. Bloch Building (2007) at Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art. Kansas City, Missouri.1 2

    References

    1. STEVEN HOLL ARCHITECTS – The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art ↩︎
    2. The Bloch Building – BNIM ↩︎

  • Urban Life: Northern cardinal

    Northern cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis)

    It’s always a pleasure when a cardinal comes to visit. This pretty one hung around my window a lot last January and February.

    Cardinals don’t migrate, and apparently live in the same territory year-round. It’s funny how I only notice them in winter, though.

  • Cul-de-sac

    He married up, that’s for sure.

    She was beautiful and ambitious, a real go-getter. That was what attracted him to her in the first place.

    The problem was that her star had yet to rise, while his was beginning to fade, although he didn’t know it yet.

    After years of anonymity, plucking and singing every night over the din of the drunk and disinterested, he finally scored a recording contract — and the girl.

    She stood by him even as his once-handsome appearance turned to shit: the long nights of drinking and cocaine, a series of failed moneymaking schemes, and the relentless pressure of performing and touring added weight to his frame and lines to his face.

    An EP was cut, but it didn’t chart, and because he no longer had a look the record executives wanted, the whole thing fell apart.

    It was a relief when they married and escaped to a small city in the middle of nowhere. He saw it as his chance to start over: a new lease on life.

    He took his savings and bought them a tidy brick house on a comfortable cul-de-sac in a respectable neighborhood. He landed a decent job as a salesman. He wasn’t particularly good at it, but the bills got paid.

    Ten years later, they had several kids, and his wife had become a successful entrepreneur. Now she was the breadwinner, with an income that eclipsed his by multiples.

    Her business took her all over the country, while he settled into a dull and predictable routine. He still had a job, but his office was at home, and there were entire days and weeks when they never saw each other.

    Cut off from meaningful contact, the outer world had seemingly forgotten him — certainly his wife had. He sat at his laptop for hours, staring absently at the screen. He knew his wife was probably sleeping with better-looking, successful men. He didn’t mind all that much.

    Now in middle age, he’d been hit with feelings he thought were buried years ago. He was attracted to women, of course, but that old longing for another man’s touch had started to resurface.

    With no one around during the day, he was free to find other married men online. He was nervous at first, but quickly gained confidence in his skin.

    He began posing for pics in the bathroom mirror: first his hard cock, then his saggy ass, then his whole body. After a while, he showed his gray-bearded face too.

    He never thought much of his dick, but was surprised to receive quite a few compliments on it from other guys. And although he was a good hundred pounds overweight, he found many men were genuinely attracted to his beefy frame.

    He initially took off his wedding ring for pictures, but then discovered that he got more likes with it on.

    He loved the attention and the feeling of being desired; it made him feel valuable again. He got into the habit of jerking off with other guys on camera, but was always a little heartbroken when they got off and ghosted. He was an artist at heart, after all, and at his core, a sensitive soul.

    What he really wanted was to be touched and held, for someone to have a good, long talk with — a person with whom he could share his innermost secrets and deep thoughts. His wife wasn’t that person anymore, and there was no one else around to fill the hole.

    Sometimes on weekends he’d do manly outdoor things with his buddies — none of whom he knew too well. He wondered what it would feel like to have their cocks in his mouth, and if they were thinking the same thing. Some of them were, but they didn’t have the balls to admit it.

    He tried to initiate a few anonymous hookups but couldn’t follow through. It wasn’t the cheating part that bothered him so much, but the fact that he was raising his sons to be manly and heterosexual, and he felt that he needed to project a strong, masculine image to them — even if it was a lie.

    As life passed him by, he withered away inside. He often looked back and wondered what he could have done differently, but he didn’t know how to move forward either.

  • Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception (1873) – Atlanta

    W.H. Parkins. Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception (1873). Atlanta.1 2 3
    Entrance of the Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception
    North elevation of the Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception
    Transept on the north elevation of the Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception
    Bell tower on the Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception
    Windows on the east elevation of the Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception
    Looking toward the Catholic Shrine of the Immaculate Conception from the south

    References

    1. “Notice!” (advertisement). The Atlanta Constitution, April 25, 1869, p. 2. ↩︎
    2. “Dedication of the New Roman Catholic Church.” The Atlanta Constitution, December 7, 1873, p. 8. ↩︎
    3. “A Brilliant Day.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 13, 1880, p. 4. ↩︎