Category: Atlanta Buildings Illustrated

  • Hirsch Building (1890-1935) – Atlanta

    G.L. Norrman. Hirsch Building. (1890-1935). Atlanta.
    G.L. Norrman. Hirsch Building.1 (1890-1935). Atlanta.

    The Background

    The article below, published in The Atlanta Constitution in March 1890, includes an illustration and description of the Hirsch Building in Atlanta, designed by G.L. Norrman.

    Located at 40-44 Whitehall Street (later 70-74 Peachtree Street SW), the five-story building opened with two anchor stores on the first floor—Hirsch Bros. and J. Regenstein & Co.2 3—with smaller businesses and apartments on the upper floors.

    Location of Hirsch Brothers Clothing Company

    The Design

    The Hirsch Building was Norman’s most significant commercial design in Atlanta since the completion of the Gate City National Bank in 1884, following a construction slump in the mid-to-late 1880s, due, in part, to the city’s short-lived attempt at prohibition.

    The project also ushered in a period between 1890 and 1893 when Norrman was at the peak of his artistic skill and professional reputation, attracting both regional and national attention.

    It was a heady time when everything seemed to come together for him: After 15 years as an architect, Norrman had honed his talent to such an impeccable degree that his designs consistently set him apart from those of Atlanta’s other architects.

    He was also clearly studying the work of nationally ranked designers, and while he wasn’t the only Atlanta architect doing so, Norrman’s educational training allowed him to grasp their underlying theories and integrate them with his own distinctive design approach.

    The city’s other designers, lacking formal education, could only imitate what they had seen elsewhere—often badly.

    H.H. Richardson. Marshall Field's Wholesale Store (1887-1930). Chicago.
    H.H. Richardson. Marshall Field’s Wholesale Store (1887-1930). Chicago.4 5 6

    For the Hirsch Building, Norrman drew obvious inspiration from the grand store buildings of larger cities, including Marshall Field‘s in Chicago, designed by H.H. Richardson and completed in 1887.

    Compared to Atlanta’s other retail structures at the time, the Hirsch Building’s design was bold, brash, and modern. Norrman used the stark Romanesque massing pioneered by Richardson, and deftly incorporated elements of the Renaissance Revival style developed by McKim, Mead & White, which was then brand-new to the Southeast.

    The Hirsch Building also included Norrman’s first known use of two arched bays spanned by a row of windows, a simple but refined design he would repeat in projects over the next two years, including the Standard Wagon Company in Atlanta, the Duncan Building in Spartanburg, South Carolina, and the Windsor Hotel in Americus, Georgia.

    Between the arched bays, Norrman placed a single column of narrow windows, each uniquely styled and topped with a different Classical pediment as if it were a towering temple, an unconventional choice that created a dynamic focal point for the composition and subtly advertised the building’s status as a retail shrine.

    To understand how much of a departure the Hirsch Building was for Atlanta’s architecture, consider the nearby Kiser Law Building, also built in 1890, and designed by A.C. Bruce of Bruce & Morgan. The Kiser Building’s stuffy, cluttered facade was typical of the commercial structures built in the city for years, and wouldn’t have looked out of place in the 1870s.

    In contrast, the Hirsch Building’s design was fresh, inventive, and even a little irreverent, entirely fitting for an audacious young city eager to enter the 20th century as the region’s commercial epicenter.

    About the Hirsch Brothers

    The Hirsch brothers were German-born immigrants who became an Atlanta institution in the late 19th century, and their legacies will be forever entwined with the city.

    The three siblings opened their first clothing store, M. & J. Hirsch, circa 1867, when the city was “a heap of ashes,”7 as the Constitution later recalled—somewhat exaggeratively.

    In later years, the Hirsch’s descendants claimed a 1863 founding for the store,8 9 but that doesn’t match the historic record: a Hirsch isn’t even listed in Atlanta’s city directory for 1867.10

    At the opening of their first store, the Hirsch brothers purportedly had so little money that they used a “store box as a desk,”11 but as their business grew, Morris and Joseph gradually settled into executive roles, while their younger brother, Henry, remained closely involved with day-to-day operations.

    By 1890, the Hirsches operated two wholesale stores in Atlanta: the original M. & J. Hirsch on Pryor Street and Hirsch Bros. on Whitehall Street.

    Pictured here: Morris Hirsch12

    Morris Hirsch (1841-190613) was described as “very popular”14 and “one of the wealthiest and most enterprising men in Atlanta.”15

    At his death, the Constitution remarked: “He started out as a penniless boy and by hard work and perseverance became a man rich in money and reputation.”16

    Illustration of Morris Hirsch (1841-1906)
    Illustration of Joseph Hirsch (1845-1914)

    Pictured here: Joseph Hirsch17

    Joseph Hirsch (1845-191418 19) was one of Atlanta’s leading citizens in the 19th century, and his most lasting contribution to the city was the founding of Grady Memorial Hospital,20 which he also named.21

    In 1890, he served as a city council member, a school board member, president of the Empire Loan and Building Association,22 and a board member of the ill-fated Confederate Veterans Home.23

    Norrman and Joseph Hirsch likely knew each other well, since Hirsch also founded Atlanta’s Hebrew Orphans’ Home,24 which Norrman designed in 1887. Hirsch was born in Germany, and Norrman was educated there, so the men shared at least a couple of languages and some cultural background.

    Pictured here: Henry Hirsch25

    As a silent partner,26 Henry Hirsch (1837-1919) maintained a lower profile than his older brothers, but when he died, the Constitution claimed: “Nearly every week for fifty-four years Mr. Hirsch was in his store…”27

    Once again, the numbers don’t add up, since the store had been in operation for 52 years at that point—Atlanta math makes my head hurt.

    About Regenstein’s

    Regenstein’s was owned by Julius Regenstein, who opened his first Atlanta store in 1871 as Regenstein & Bro.,28 although the store later claimed a 1872 founding.29 I really can’t stress enough how ignorant Atlantans are of their own history—or anything else, for that matter.

    Known for many years as “The Surprise Store,” Regenstein’s was a “mammoth millinery establishment” that reportedly employed “the first saleswoman in the South,” Martha Owens, who began working shortly after the store’s opening and remained for 20 years.30 In 1890, the store’s “leading milliner” was another woman: a mysterious “Madam Groskuth.”31

    Regenstein’s pairing with Hirsch Brothers made sense: both were leading Jewish retailers, but their product lines were also completely different, so they were never in direct competition.

    Hirsch Bros. specialized in men’s and boys’ clothing, and Regenstein’s sold women’s items, including hats, bonnets, hosiery, gloves, and underwear.

    To give you an idea of Regenstein’s offerings, the store’s specials in 1890 included “Fine French and Swiss made Underwear at remarkably low prices.”32 Ooh la la!

    Competition and Construction

    Since 1880, the Hirsch Brothers store had operated in a two-story building33 on Whitehall Street,34 and in late 1889, the Hirsches reportedly decided to build a new, larger structure on the same lot to expand their business.35

    At the time, Atlanta’s commercial district occupied about 10 blocks south of Five Points, between Decatur and Mitchell Streets, and Whitehall was its main artery, lined on both sides by the city’s most prestigious retailers.

    The Whitehall businesses had been locked in competition for years to see who could build the newest, largest, and most elaborate stores, and gut renovations or complete rebuildings of Atlanta’s leading retail establishments were common.

    The Hirsch’s lot was narrow—only 120 feet wide36—but with five full floors, the new Hirsch Building would tower over the two- and three-story buildings on every side, for a few years anyway.

    The project was first announced in January 1890,37 with a building permit issued in February 1890,38 and the existing structure was demolished by the end of the month.39 Construction lasted six months and was completed in early September 1890.40

    The Hirsch Building was furnished with steam heat, the “very best lights,” and an electric elevator41 42—you’ll be hearing more about the elevator.

    The elevator and stairs were crammed into a narrow hallway between the two anchor stores,43 and the stairs must have been incredibly steep, judging from the floor plans shown on insurance maps.

    I’ve explored enough of Norrman’s buildings to know that he thought nothing of designing tight passages or steep flights of steps, but accessibility wasn’t a consideration of any architect in 1890.

    The Hirsch Building’s interiors were designed by the May Mantel Company of Atlanta,44 and with a full slate of other projects, Norrman was likely happy to delegate the task—interiors were never his primary focus, and apart from certain prestige projects, he increasingly paid them less attention from the 1890s onwards.

    The article below reports that Joseph Hirsch supervised the building’s construction himself, but I’m always skeptical of such claims. Surely Norrman or one of his assistants was on hand to ensure a competent execution of the plans, but maybe not—Norrman had projects in at least five states that year, and he and his staff must have been stretched to their limit.

    Hirsch Brothers opening day advertisement
    Hirsch Brothers opening day advertisement45

    More in Store

    Regenstein’s was the first tenant to move into the Hirsch Building,46 47 48 49opening on September 25, 1890,50 followed by Hirsch Brothers a few days later.51 Suites on the building’s upper floors began renting out in October 1890.52

    Hirsch Brothers’ new, larger space allowed the store to expand its product offerings, as the Constitution described in an opening-day article:

    “Hirsch Brothers will make a special feature of their hat department. Heretofore they have not had the room.

    “Gent’s furnishings will also receive the attention of Hirsch Brothers. They will also make a specialty of this line of goods and can accommodate all those who desire goods of this character.”53

    I’m not entirely sure what “gent’s furnishings” would be, but I’m guessing it included dressers, clothing cabinets, shaving mirrors, and the like.

    The store’s tailoring department also expanded, reportedly employing “the very best tailors that could be secured in New York and London…”54 Yeah, I call bullshit on that one.

    A Pretty Picture

    Another of the Hirsch Building’s opening tenants was the Atlanta Photo Company, which also occupied a space in the company’s previous structure.55

    Before the studio’s opening in October 1890,56 The Atlanta Journal proclaimed: “It will be the finest gallery in Atlanta. It will be the only gallery reached by an elevator.”57 Fancy.

    In advertisements, the business touted its top-floor placement:

    “It is located in the fifth story, above the noise, heat and dust of the city, free from reflections of surrounding buildings; has therefore, direct unobstructed light and pure air. The best of all, for the comfort of our customers, it is reached by a fine passenger elevator, thereby avoiding the fatigue of climbing stairs.

    “Call and see us whether you want pictures or not.”58

    A Cursed Elevator

    Atlanta’s first passenger elevator debuted in 1877, and by 1890, they’d become a familiar sight in the city’s public buildings, so you’ve got to wonder what was so unusual about the Hirsch Building’s elevator that led to a trio of injuries in its first year of operation.

    In December 1890, just a few months after the building’s opening, a man named C.C. Sams was struck in the head by the elevator and “cut open to the skull.” The Journal explained that “He was looking up to see if the elevator was coming down, and didn’t see it.”59 Why was he standing underneath the damn thing?

    One month later, two young newsboys outside the Hirsch Building were reportedly engaged in rough-housing and horseplay—I’ve been itching to use those terms for a while. In the excitement of the moment, one of the boys, Hunter Adams, ran into the building’s center hallway and pushed open the elevator door.60

    Unfortunately for Adams, the elevator was in use on an upper floor, and he fell down the elevator shaft into the basement, landing on “a young man who caught the force of the fall upon his shoulder.” Adams received a sprained ankle and bruises,61 and I’m sure the guy he fell on wasn’t in great shape, either.

    The corresponding story in the Constitution was titled “Down The Shaft.” Just leaving that there.

    A week later, the boy’s mother sued Hirsch Brothers for $10,000, claiming her son had received permanent injuries.62 No word on the outcome.

    The third and most serious incident occurred in July 1891, when a young man was crushed in the elevator’s gears. Sixteen-year-old Stonewall Paul—great name, no?—was employed by the Hirsches to operate the building’s elevator.63 64 Also present was his father, R.K. Paul, who maintained the elevator’s hydraulic system.65

    By 1891, the Constitution was starting to feel the heat of the rival Journal‘s more sensational storytelling methods, and its grisly description of the event is a breathtaking piece of macabre news writing:

    “Yesterday the machinery got out of order, and the boy left the elevator to help his father fix it. The floor was wet, the boy’s foot slipped and he fell upon the cogwheels working the pump.

    The wheels were moving, and the father saw his son being rapidly drawn between them. In a second he grasped the boy, and with a frenzied jerk, separated him from the machinery, leaving between the wheels pieces of torn and bleeding flesh torn from the breast and side.

    “The wheels with a tear and crunch had dragged half the shirt and pieces of flesh from the body and crushed every rib of the left side.

    “With the fainting boy in his arms the father started for help which soon arrived. The boy was stretched out upon the floor of the engine room and physicians were sent for. It was a pitiful and frightful sight—the young boy lying on his back, perfectly conscious, but not allowing even a moan to pass his lips; his breast bare and blood running from holes where flesh had been torn from it. Just at and below the left nipple was an opening large enough for a man to thrust a hand in, lying loosely over which was a large piece of skin torn from one side, but attached to the other.

    Through this opening the heart’s action could be plainly seen, as that organ contracted and relaxed.

    “Here, too, was a break in the left lung, and through the hole the boy heavily breathed. With every labored breath the loose skin would flutter as the air rushed in, and as it rushed out with a loud, gasping sound, drops of blood would be blown out and scattered.

    The poor father was wild with grief. Without the heart to look at the bleeding form of the boy, he threw himself upon the ground outside, and there moaned and talked to himself.”66

    While it initially appeared young Stonewall would die,67 68 he remarkably recovered,69 70 71 72 although the incident reportedly made him a “cripple for life.”73 Their words.

    Paul’s parents sued the Hirsches for either $10,00074 or $15,000,75 but the case was ultimately “nonsuited” by a judge two years later.76 Atlanta justice for you.

    The Mysterious Shooting of Dr. Jackson

    Any building of consequence in Atlanta has been the scene of at least one bizarre crime, and a particularly baffling one occurred on September 4, 1894, when a doctor was shot three times in his room on the third floor of the Hirsch Building.

    Illustration of Dr. R.G. Jackson

    Dr. R.G. Jackson (pictured here77) was one of the Hirsch Building’s original tenants. Pretty man, don’t you think?

    Jackson specialized in—well, I’ll quote one of his many newspaper advertisements: “Piles, fistula, and all Rectal Diseases treated by a painless process.”78

    Jackson’s suite consisted of two connecting rooms: a larger one for his living quarters, and a smaller one for his office, which contained “his surgical chair and the cabinet in which his instruments are kept.”79 Savory.

    That the shooting occurred in Jackson’s bedroom, and not his office, apparently sent local tongues a’wagging. And Atlantans do like to wag their nasty tongues.

    Once again, the Constitution described the incident in breathless detail, with tantalizing morsels worthy of a pulp story:

    ‘At 8 o’clock Dr. Jackson took supper at Durand’s restaurant. He was in a gay humor and laughed and talked with several friends who were sitting at the same table.

    He left for his rooms at 40 Whitehall for the purpose of changing his clothes preparatory to making an evening call. As he started up the stairway he met Patrolman Braselton and the two men stopped for a short chat. He entered the door of his bedroom, lit a cigarette and played for a few seconds with his setter dog before beginning to undress for a bath.

    He had taken off his coat and top shirt and walked into his office room to make arrangements for a bath. As he stepped into the room a suspicious noise attracted his attention. He stopped and looked back, but his dog was coming from that direction and he decided that the noise was made by him.

    ‘Dr. Jackson had reached the washstand. His suspenders were down and in order to prevent his pistol, which he carried in his right hippocket, from falling, he placed it on the table.

    ‘As he turned to go back into his bedroom for a towel the curtain moved and the face of a strange negro stuck itself out.

    “Hold Up Both Hands.”

    ‘”What are you doing there, you black rascal?” As he said this the doctor walked towards the man.

    ‘In an instant the burglar jumped from behind the curtain. “Hold up both hands or I’ll put a hole through your head,” covering the doctor as he spoke, the negro pushed the gleaming barrel in the doctor’s face.

    ‘It was a critical moment and the doctor realized it. He did not hesitate. With the fiery dash and bravery which have always characterized him he jumped to the table for the pistol. Quicker than the flash of his weapon he turned and fired. The negro was behind the curtain and it is thought that the ball failed to strike him.

    ‘Before the doctor could fire again and when he was blinded by the smoke of his own revolver the burglar gave a quick step forward, placed his pistol opposite the doctor’s head and pulled the trigger.

    ‘The ball struck with fearful force, causing Dr. Jackson to reel and fall backwards against the washstand.

    ‘Taking advantage of his position the negro stepped further up and fired again. The ball struck in the left hip joint and the doctor fell again. Then, with superhuman effort he raised himself. The negro had taken cover behind the curtain again and was firing at the place where he knew the doctor to be standing. At the same time Jackson began firing and for a second there was a fearful fusillade.

    ‘Both men had emptied their revolvers. Through the blinding smoke the burglar glared at the bleeding figure of his almost helpless victim.

    ‘”I am going to kill you, damn you.” The doctor heard him say this as he rushed forward to grapple.

    ‘On his feet again Jackson reached out both hands for the throat of the desperate man. He was too weak to hold him off and they clinched.

    ‘In his hands the negro still held the smoking pistol and as he grappled gave the doctor a terrific blow on the skull. Again the physician sank to the floor and again rose up to fight his merciless antagonist. A second time the pistol descended and once more the doctor went to the floor, blood gushing from his head and body.

    ‘Like an enraged tiger the burglar stood above his prostrate form ready again to strike. Jackson came up once again and succeeded in getting his arm around the man’s waist. It was a struggle for his life and with supreme determination, Jackson retained his grasp. The men tumbled about and the burglar attempted to extricate himself all the while beating his pistol savagely against the doctor’s head.

    They had neared the window and were going at it wildly. At a sudden turn the pair fell against the glass which was crashed to pieces. They separated, the doctor reeling back toward the door with the burglar following.

    ‘Here the struggle was renewed again fiercer than before. Thoroughly exhausted, Jackson was overpowered finally. The streaming blood covered his face and when the burglar left it was impossible for him to tell which way he went.”‘80

    "Scene Of The Shooting."
    “Scene Of The Shooting.”81

    The Aftermath

    Jackson’s friend “Patrolman Braselton,” who had been chatting with him moments before the shooting, was reportedly walking down Whitehall Street when he heard the shots being fired, then ran back into the Hirsch Building and bolted up the stairs.82 Good thing he didn’t use the elevator.

    At the top of the steps, the cop found Jackson on the floor, sobbing, “My God, Braselton, they have murdered me.”83 So melodramatic. Jackson, incidentally, recovered from his injuries.

    Braselton recalled: “As I was standing at the bottom of the staircase and saw no one go out, it occurred to me at once that the man who did the shooting was in the house and I started out to look for him.”84 Smart thinking there, boss.

    The Constitution described the extent of the search:

    “Lanterns were secured and a large searching party covered the tin roof. Every chimney was examined and all the corners of the building looked into. Squads of police entered the different rooms in the building with the hopes that the man might have stopped on his way down to escape to conceal himself there.

    No trace of him could be found.

    “Every foot of the large roof was looked at but no blood nor sign of the man’s presence could be seen.”85

    Jackson insisted that he was shot by a Black man, later stating, “The man who shot me was a young negro. He seemed to be about eighteen years old, and was very black.”86

    That information was corroborated by the engineer for the Hirsch Building, J.W. Vaughan, who lived on the fourth floor with his wife and claimed to have chased the shooter through the building before the man jumped out of a fourth-floor window.87

    We all know that White Southerners get off on accusing Black men of crimes, so it’s interesting that so few people in Atlanta seemed to believe Jackson’s description of the shooter, with the Journal expressing outright skepticism:

    “There is an air of mystery surrounding the affair, and accounts of the shooting which has been given to the police and press have been slowly accepted.

    “That Dr. Jacksons’ assailant was a man there can be little doubt.

    There is some doubt, however, about it being a negro man and burglar.”88

    The Journal reported on a group of eyewitnesses who saw a man jump from the window of the Hirsch Building to the roof of an adjoining structure, adding:

    “It was too dark to tell whether it was a white or a colored man, but it was certainly a man…”

    The Constitution followed up the next morning, referring to the rival Journal as “the afternoon paper”:

    “During the day there had been many wild reports concerning the affair, and many were inclined to give it a mysterious coloring. Theories of various kinds were hatched up by those who doubted the story of the burglar. These reports had reached the doctor, and he was much incensed. Concerning the report in the afternoon paper, which openly expressed a doubt as the truth of his statement, he was enraged…”89

    Jackson publicly addressed at least one “rumor” associated with the shooting, or maybe he was just creating one of his own:

    I naturally expected rumors about a woman in the case to come up, as is always the case in an affair of this kind, but my statement of the shooting is so fully corroborated by circumstances, that I have no time to pay any attention to them.”90

    At least three Black men were arrested on suspicion of the shooting—one in Madison, Georgia,91 another in Americus, Georgia,92 93 94 95 and a third in Birmingham, Alabama.96 None of the men was the shooter, who was never caught.97

    The lack of an arrest continued to fuel public skepticism, with the Constitution repeating a few days after the shooting:

    “The various reports which have been circulated and published reflecting upon the doctor’s account of the affair are all known to him, and he is warmly indignant and declares that he intends to resent personally any insinuations against his character.”98

    Nine days after the shooting, Jackson left the city without notice, apparently returning to his father’s home in New Orleans.99

    Before the incident, Jackson had been distressed by the recent death of his mother, with the Constitution noting that “the shock on receiving the news nearly prostrated him.” It was also said that as he lay on the floor bleeding when he was shot, Jacksonfrequently called the name of his mother.”100

    Jackson returned to Atlanta two weeks later, with the Constitution describing him as “looking very pale,” and adding that he “shows very plainly the effects of his suffering from the terrible encounter with the burglar.”101

    As if insulting his appearance wasn’t enough, the report again referred to the “wild stories” surrounding his shooting:

    “The doctor denounces the stories that were circulated about the shooting affair soon after it occurred to the effect that the murderous assault was not made by a negro burglar. Those damaging stories gained considerable circulation, but no one who knew Dr. Jackson gave them credence.”102

    Nothing about the incident made any damn sense, and Jackson’s behavior in the following year was equally baffling.

    In May 1895, he had “a very quiet wedding,”103 marrying a Miss Lizzie Renfroe, although the papers couldn’t even agree on where the ceremony occurred: the Constitution claimed it was at the West End Methodist parsonage,104 while the Journal said it was at “the home of the bride in Edgewood,”105 on the other side of the city.

    Jackson made news again in October 1895, when he engaged in a cane fight with a local attorney, J.E. Robinson, at Atlanta’s police headquarters,106 an incident stemming from “an old feud between the two men.”107

    The Constitution described their dispute:

    “Robinson spoke to the physician, whereupon the latter remarked that he recognized only gentlemen as his acquaintances. The remark angered Robinson, who asked the physician if he intended to intimate that he, the attorney, was not a gentleman. Dr. Jackson replied in the affirmative, whereupon Robinson struck him.”108

    As a result of the fight, “Dr. Jackson received a cut on the forehead which brought the blood freely, staining an immaculate shirt front and collar.”109

    Surely Jackson’s reputation in Atlanta was shot at that point: his last newspaper advertisement was published one month later in November 1895,110 and it appears he gave up his medical practice completely.

    The doctor and his mysterious wife moved to Brunswick, Georgia, in March 1900, where he worked as a representative for the Sun Insurance Company of Canada.111

    Twelve years after the shooting, a columnist for the Constitution recalled the case and claimed that Atlanta police had later determined the shooter was a member of “a strong secret organization” that Jackson had unwittingly crossed years earlier.112

    The convoluted and frankly preposterous explanation was that the shooter posed as a locksmith in the Hirsch Building for a year to monitor Jackson’s movements. On the night he shot Jackson, the shooter purportedly coated his face in lamp black, which was said to have been found near a bowl of dirty water in the back of the building, “a year or two later.”113

    The story is too outlandish and full of holes to be credible, and it doesn’t help that the columnist got so many basic details of the case wrong, including that Jackson was shot at 2 a.m., and that “a few months later [he] died out west.”114

    If we’re going to entertain far-fetched theories, I’m more inclined to believe that Jackson’s shooting was the result of a lovers’ spat between downlow Atlanta men—surely that was one of the “damaging stories” being whispered about.

    There are plenty of clues to support the theory, and for God’s sake, the guy examined assholes for a living.

    Looking south on Whitehall Street, with the Hirsch Building visible on the distant left. Illustration from an undated postcard published by Witt Bros. of Atlanta and Berlin.
    Looking south on Whitehall Street, with the Hirsch Building visible on the distant left. Illustration from an undated postcard published by Witt Bros. of Atlanta and Berlin.

    Consistency and Change

    Within 10 years of the Hirsch Building’s completion, most of the storefronts on Whitehall Street had grown to five or more floors, and as Atlanta’s first skyscrapers of eight to 10 stories began forming a nascent skyline, the briefly prominent structure increasingly faded into the cityscape.

    In 1894, Morris and Joseph Hirsch sold their shares in Hirsch Brothers to their sons, L.H. Hirsch and M.R. Hirsch, although Henry Hirsch retained his share in the store,115 which continued operation as Hirsch Brothers.

    Hirsch Brothers and Regenstein’s remained the anchor tenants for the Hirsch Building’s entire existence, but the upper floors, divided into much smaller spaces, became a hodgepodge of businesses that often vanished as quickly as they appeared.

    The building particularly attracted two types of entrepreneurs in its early years: medical practitioners and boutique dressmakers.

    In the early 1890s, the Hirsch Building’s tenants included “The Sultan’s Physician,” who advertised cures for “Cancer, Blood and Skin Diseases,”116 Mrs. A.M. Smith, a “massage and complexion specialist,”117 and at least three dentists.118 119 120 In 1898, the building was the home of Madame Browne, an “expert dermatologist.”121

    The Hirsch Building housed dozens of dressmakers in the 1890s, including Mrs. V.A. Foster, who specialized in “evening costumes,”122 the parlors of Mrs. Odair and Miss Shumate, who made “ladies’ gowns in the latest and most stylish manner,”123 and Alice & Co., a New York-based studio that designed—what else?—”fashionable gowns.”124

    Other businesses in the early 1900s included “Miss Stokes“, who sold “The Most Elegant Gowns”125 and “Madam Alice,” for “women who take a pride in being well gowned.”126 So many damn madames.

    By 1896, the Atlanta Photo Company was out of business and replaced by another photo studio,127 and in the late 1890s, yet another madame, Madame Marie Percy,128 began offering “Scientifically correct readings from marking of hands.”129

    But Madame Marie had nothing on Madame Paulini, “the most noted Scientific Palmist of the age,”130 who operated in the Hirsch Building for 10 months in 1906 and 1907.131

    Madame Paulini reportedly read the hands of “Queen Victoria, Admiral Dewey, ex-president Benjamin Harrison, Mrs. McKinley, ex-President McKinley, Mrs. Cleveland, Ella Wheeler Wilcox, Hon. Carter H. Harrison, and many others.”132 So, of course, she came to Atlanta. Makes perfect sense.

    Following Henry Hirsch’s death in 1919, the Hirsch Brothers store was incorporated as Hirsch Brothers Company, managed by the descendants of the three original Hirsches.133

    Remember that hazardous elevator? Well, in 1921, another worker in the Hirsch Building was severely injured when he was crushed between the elevator and the third floor.134 It wasn’t the same elevator, though: the original had apparently been replaced during a 1915 renovation.135

    Maybe it was just the building that was cursed.

    Atlanta Moves On

    By the 1920s, Atlanta’s commercial district had been drifting northward for years, following the path of the city’s wealthiest residents as their swift new automobiles took them miles away from Whitehall Street into the suburbs of Ansley Park, Druid Hills, Buckhead, and places beyond.

    In 1930, Regenstein’s opened a second, much larger store several blocks north at the corner of Peachtree and Cain Streets, while continuing to operate its original location in the Hirsch Building.

    It wasn’t too shocking when Regenstein’s announced five years later that it would move its older store to a larger space at 80 Whitehall Street.136 137

    Following the Regenstein’s announcement, the Hirsch organization revealed that Hirsch Brothers would also be moving to a new space, several blocks north at 79 Peachtree Street.138

    With the removal of its two anchor stores, the Hirsch Building was demolished exactly 45 years after its completion, in September 1935139—well, most of the building, anyway.

    Only the top three floors of the Hirsch Building were demolished, while the bottom two floors were renovated and given a new facade designed by Dillon & Lewis of Atlanta.140 141

    The two-story shell of the former Hirsch Building survives, although nothing of Norrman’s design remains, and even the 1935 facade has been replaced at least twice. It could be argued that the structure technically exists, but since it’s been so substantially altered, I consider it as good as demolished.

    Out With a Whimper

    In 1963, Hirsch Brothers celebrated its 100th anniversary as “Atlanta’s Oldest Retail Store”, a designation that it probably should have shared with Rich’s, which also began in 1867.142 By the time the second Morris Hirsch died in 1967, the rebranded Hirsch’s had expanded to six stores in the Atlanta area,143 five of them located in shopping malls.

    Based on the company’s flurry of newspaper advertisements in the 1960s and 70s, Hirsch’s valiantly attempted to modernize and adapt its offerings to suit changing consumer tastes, but in its final years, the company made no secret of its desperate fight for survival.

    One particularly pathetic ad from 1979 stated: “After 115 years as one of Atlanta’s Leading men’s clothiers we are forced to RE-EVALUATE & CONSOLIDATE. currently negotiating lease expirations, we must make the important decision whether or not to STAY OR GO!”144 Apparently, the store was now claiming a 1874 founding.

    Within months, Hirsch’s operated just one store, at Greenbriar Mall145 in southwest Atlanta. That location apparently closed circa 1981 without any press notice.146

    Regenstein’s died just as quietly. After expanding to four stores across metro Atlanta in the mid-20th century, the Regenstein family sold their company to a Texas businessman in 1976 because “none of the younger members of the family intended to carry on the business.”147

    By 1985, the company had reduced its operations to one location and shifted its focus to selling furs.148 The store was gone by 1994,149 again, without any press mention.

    Today, you’d be lucky to find anyone in Atlanta who’s heard of either Hirsch’s or Regenstein’s.


    G.L. Norrman. Hirsch Building (1890-1935). Atlanta.

    The Hirsch Building.

    Above is a picture of the elegant front of Hirsch Bros. new building which is being erected at No. 40 Whitehall street.

    It will be one of the handsomest and most perfectly constructed buildings in the city, and will rear its stately front in the very busiest portion of metropolitan Atlanta.

    It will be a double building, five stories high, designed with a skilled appropriateness for the purposes intended. It will be of brick and iron, the interior magnificently finished in wood of the finest material.

    The building will cost all the way from $40,000 to $45,000, and the construction is being superintended by Mr. Joe Hirsch, the senior member of the firm, in person, and his long experience in business enables him to design and execute the plans and specifications, with an eye to the greatest economy of interior space coupled with the elegance in proportion and outside adornment of a skilled architect.

    It was begun about the first of the present month, and will be completed by from the 1st to the 15th of August next. One-half of the building will be occupied by Hirsch Bros. big retail store, and the other half has been rented to another large retail concern.150

    References

    1. Photo credit: “Pages From Regenstein’s Family Album 1872-1939” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, December 15, 1939, p. 55. ↩︎
    2. “The City In Brief.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 29, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    3. “Little Locals.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 4, 1890, p. 8. ↩︎
    4. Illustration credit: Van Rensselaer, Mariana Griswold. Henry Hobson Richardson and His Works. New York: Dover Publications, Inc. (1969) ↩︎
    5. “Plan To Raze Old Field Building, City Landmark”. Chicago Sunday Tribune, March 30, 1930, Part 1, p. A9. ↩︎
    6. “Huge Blocks In Old Field Warehouse To Stay Where They Are”. Chicago Sunday Tribune, May 4, 1930, Part 2, p. 14A. ↩︎
    7. “Mr. Joseph Hirsch.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 5, 1893, p. 3. ↩︎
    8. “Hirsch Bros. Company Plans Eight-Day Sale In Observance of 69th Anniversary Here”. The Atlanta Journal, September 9, 1932, p. 25. ↩︎
    9. “Hirsch To Celebrate 69th Anniversary”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 10, 1932, p. 3. ↩︎
    10. Barnwell’s Atlanta City Directory. Atlanta: Intelligencer Book and Job Office (1867). ↩︎
    11. “Hebrews Of Atlanta”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 12, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎
    12. Illustration credit: “Israelites”. The Atlanta Journal, November 21, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    13. “Morris Hirsch Drops Dead While Visiting Sick Friend”. The Atlanta Journal, February 6, 1906, p. 7. ↩︎
    14. “Morris Hirsch To Be Buried At Oakland”. The Atlanta Journal, February 7, 1906, p. 6. ↩︎
    15. “Morris Hirsch Drops Dead While Visiting Sick Friend”. The Atlanta Journal, February 6, 1906, p. 7. ↩︎
    16. ibid. ↩︎
    17. Illustration credit: “Mr. Joseph Hirsch.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 5, 1893, p. 3. ↩︎
    18. “Mr. Joseph Hirsch.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 5, 1893, p. 3. ↩︎
    19. “Joseph Hirsch Dies In Atlantic City”. The Atlanta Constitution, August 21, 1914, p. 1. ↩︎
    20. “A Free City Hospital”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 6, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    21. “Hebrews Of Atlanta”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 12, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎
    22. “The Councilmen.” The Atlanta Journal, May 1, 1889, p. 4. ↩︎
    23. “The Deeds Made Out”. The Atlanta Journal, June 2, 1889, p. 16. ↩︎
    24. “The City.” The Atlanta Journal, October 14, 1886, p. 4. ↩︎
    25. Photo credit: “Pioneer Atlantan Died on Wednesday”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 19, 1919, p. 18. ↩︎
    26. Alexander, Raymonde. “For 100 Years, a Men’s Store Grew with Atlanta”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 20, 1963, p. 27. ↩︎
    27. “Mr. Henry Hirsch, Pioneer, Is Dead; Funeral Friday”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 19, 1919, p. 11. ↩︎
    28. “City Intelligence.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 30, 1871, p. 3. ↩︎
    29. “Sale Will Herald 60th Anniversary Of Regenstein Co.” The Atlanta Journal, February 21, 1932, p. 9. ↩︎
    30. “Pages From Regenstein’s Family Album” (advertisement). The Atlanta Constitution, December 14, 1939, p. 5. ↩︎
    31. “A Wealth Of Flowers”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 20, 1890, p. 23. ↩︎
    32. Advertisement. The Atlanta Constitution, April 20, 1890, p. 23. ↩︎
    33. Atlanta, Georgia, 1886 / published by the Sanborn Map and Publishing Co Limited ↩︎
    34. “That New Store.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 29, 1880, p. 4. ↩︎
    35. “Hirsch Brothers.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 28, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎
    36. Insurance maps, Atlanta, Georgia, 1911 / published by the Sanborn Map Company ↩︎
    37. “Will Suspend.” The Atlanta Journal, January 15, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    38. “Firemen’s Insurance.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 18, 1890, p. 3. ↩︎
    39. “The Building Begun.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 27, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    40. “Building Notes.” The Atlanta Journal, September 6, 1890, p. 12. ↩︎
    41. “Hirsch Brothers.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 28, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎
    42. “Kodak Kolum”. The Atlanta Journal, July 27, 1893, p. 6. ↩︎
    43. Insurance maps, Atlanta, Georgia, 1911 / published by the Sanborn Map Company ↩︎
    44. “Big Contracts Awarded.” The Atlanta Journal, August 29, 1892, p. 2. ↩︎
    45. “Hirsch Brothers.” (advertisement). The Atlanta Constitution, September 28, 1890, p. 24. ↩︎
    46. “Little Locals.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 4, 1890, p. 8. ↩︎
    47. “In Business Circles.” The Atlanta Journal, September 6, 1890, p. 11. ↩︎
    48. “Little Locals.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 9, 1890, p. 6. ↩︎
    49. “Bright And Breezy.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 18, 1890, p. 6. ↩︎
    50. “Great Millinery Opening.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 24, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    51. “Hirsch Brothers.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 28, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎
    52. “Rooms.” (advertisement). The Atlanta Constitution, October 21, 1890, p. 3. ↩︎
    53. “Hirsch Brothers.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 28, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎
    54. ibid. ↩︎
    55. “The Gallery Is Closed.” The Atlanta Journal, March 11, 1890, p. 3. ↩︎
    56. “Now Ready For Business.” The Atlanta Journal, October 27, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    57. “Whitehall’s Pride.” The Atlanta Journal, September 6, 1890, p. 9. ↩︎
    58. “New Gallery” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, November 12, 1890, p. 8. ↩︎
    59. “Hit By An Elevator.” The Atlanta Journal, December 8, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    60. “Down The Shaft.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 21, 1891, p. 4. ↩︎
    61. ibid. ↩︎
    62. “For $10,000 Damages.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 27, 1891, p. 81. ↩︎
    63. “Frightfully Torn.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 16, 1891, p. 5. ↩︎
    64. “Hurt by an Elevator.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 12, 1891, p. 6. ↩︎
    65. “Frightfully Torn.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 16, 1891, p. 5. ↩︎
    66. ibid. ↩︎
    67. ibid. ↩︎
    68. “From Our Notebooks.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 17, 1891, p. 6. ↩︎
    69. “He Is Better.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 20, 1891, p. 2. ↩︎
    70. “Curbstone Chat.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 30, 1891, p. 10. ↩︎
    71. “From Our Notebooks.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 2, 1891, p. 20. ↩︎
    72. “Stonewall Paul Better.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 11, 1891, p. 5. ↩︎
    73. “Georgia And Florida.” The Savannah Morning News (Savannah, Georgia), September 8, 1891, p. 6. ↩︎
    74. “Hurt by an Elevator.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 12, 1891, p. 6. ↩︎
    75. “Georgia And Florida.” The Savannah Morning News (Savannah, Georgia), September 8, 1891, p. 6. ↩︎
    76. “Briefly Mentioned.” The Atlanta Journal, October 20, 1893, p. 1. ↩︎
    77. “Shot Three Times.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 5, 1894, p. 5. ↩︎
    78. Advertisement. The Atlanta Journal, November 1, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    79. “Shot Three Times.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 5, 1894, p. 5. ↩︎
    80. ibid. ↩︎
    81. Illustration credit: ibid. ↩︎
    82. “The Policeman’s Story”. The Atlanta Journal, September 10, 1894, p. 6. ↩︎
    83. ibid. ↩︎
    84. “Dr. Jackson Talks”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 6, 1894, p. 2. ↩︎
    85. “Shot Three Times.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 5, 1894, p. 5. ↩︎
    86. ibid. ↩︎
    87. “He Is Star Witness.” The Atlanta Journal, September 7, 1894, p. 5. ↩︎
    88. “Fought A Duel In A Room.” The Atlanta Journal, September 5, 1894, p. 6. ↩︎
    89. “Dr. Jackson Talks”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 6, 1894, p. 2. ↩︎
    90. “He Is Star Witness.” The Atlanta Journal, September 7, 1894, p. 5. ↩︎
    91. “Dr. Jackson Talks”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 6, 1894, p. 2. ↩︎
    92. “Is It The Burglar?” The Atlanta Constitution, October 30, 1894, p. 12. ↩︎
    93. “No Tidings Yet.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 31, 1894, p. 10. ↩︎
    94. “In The Local Field.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 6, 1894, p. 2. ↩︎
    95. “Not The Negro.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 7, 1894, p. 5. ↩︎
    96. “No Tidings Yet.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 31, 1894, p. 2. ↩︎
    97. “Bruff’s Column”. The Atlanta Constitution, October 1, 1906, p. 4. ↩︎
    98. “Dr. Jackson Improving.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 9, 1894, p. 19. ↩︎
    99. “Dr. Jackson Goes Away”. The Atlanta Journal, September 13, 1894, p. 1. ↩︎
    100. “Shot Three Times.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 5, 1894, p. 5. ↩︎
    101. “The Doctor Is Back.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 26, 1894, p. 9. ↩︎
    102. ibid. ↩︎
    103. “Social Gossip.” The Atlanta Constitution, May 17, 1895, p. 5. ↩︎
    104. ibid. ↩︎
    105. “Society.” The Atlanta Journal, May 17, 1895, p. 7. ↩︎
    106. “A Lively Fight.” The Atlanta Journal, October 5, 1895, p. 9. ↩︎
    107. “Lawyer And Doctor Mix.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 6, 1895, p. 2. ↩︎
    108. ibid. ↩︎
    109. ibid. ↩︎
    110. “Personal.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 3, 1895, p. 11. ↩︎
    111. “Will Reside In Brunswick.” The Brunswick Times (Brunswick, Georgia), March 24, 1900, p. 1. ↩︎
    112. “Bruff’s Column”. The Atlanta Constitution, October 1, 1906, p. 4. ↩︎
    113. ibid. ↩︎
    114. ibid. ↩︎
    115. “Dissolution.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 10, 1894, p. 8. ↩︎
    116. Advertisement. The Atlanta Constitution, November 11, 1892, p. 4. ↩︎
    117. “Massage Treatment.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 5, 1893, p. 7. ↩︎
    118. “Dr. Rudolphus Jones, Dentist” (advertisement), The Atlanta Journal, April 13, 1892, p. 8. ↩︎
    119. “Dr. R.A. Holliday, Dentist” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, April 20, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    120. “Dr. J.A. Sims, Dentist”. The Atlanta Journal, April 28, 1893, p. 3. ↩︎
    121. “Be Beautiful—Be Happy.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 23, 1898, p. 15. ↩︎
    122. “Evening Gowns.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 25, 1892, p. 17. ↩︎
    123. “Fine Dressmaking.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 17, 1892, p. 19. ↩︎
    124. “Fashionable Gowns.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 3, 1895, p. 6. ↩︎
    125. “The Most Elegant Gowns” (advertisement). The Atlanta Constitution, December 1, 1901, p. 24. ↩︎
    126. “Madam Alice”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 27, 1903, p. 2. ↩︎
    127. “There Is No Denying”. The Atlanta Journal, May 16, 1896, p. 7. ↩︎
    128. “Personal” (advertisement), The Atlanta Constitution, October 9, 1898, p. 10. ↩︎
    129. “Personal” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, March 4, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    130. “Palmistry.” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, January 6, 1907, p. 8. ↩︎
    131. Advertisement. The Atlanta Journal, July 19, 1907, p. 16. ↩︎
    132. “Palmistry.” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, January 6, 1907, p. 8. ↩︎
    133. “Hirsch Bros. Company Plans Eight-Day Sale In Observance of 69th Anniversary Here”. The Atlanta Journal, September 9, 1932, p. 25. ↩︎
    134. “Negro Badly Injured When Caught Between Elevator and Floor”. The Atlanta Journal, November 16, 1921, p. 5. ↩︎
    135. “The Real Estate Field.” The Atlanta Journal, June 8, 1915, p. 17. ↩︎
    136. “J. Regenstein Co. Lease Heads List Of Week’s Deals”. The Atlanta Journal, February 10, 1935, p. 6D. ↩︎
    137. “Regenstein’s Buys 3-Story Building At 80 Whitehall”. The Atlanta Journal, September 15, 1935, p. 10B. ↩︎
    138. “Hirsch Brothers Concern To Move Into New Building”. The Atlanta Journal, August 2, 1935, p. 13. ↩︎
    139. “Whitehall Store Leased by Chain Of Women’s Shops”. The Atlanta Journal, August 8, 1935, p. 2. ↩︎
    140. ibid. ↩︎
    141. “Three Important Deals Recorded In Realty Here”. The Atlanta Journal, August 25, 1935, p. 6D. ↩︎
    142. “M. Rich & Bros. Co. Add Another Whitehall Street Store To Their Large Quarters”. The Atlanta Journal, April 18, 1904, p. 4. ↩︎
    143. “Clothier Hirsch Dies at 60”. The Atlanta Constitution, August 31, 1967, p. 1. ↩︎
    144. Advertisement. The Atlanta Journal, April 19, 1979, p. 8-A. ↩︎
    145. Advertisement. The Atlanta Constitution, Intown Extra, September 27, 1979, p. D11. ↩︎
    146. Advertisement. The Atlanta Journal, Intown Extra, January 15, 1891, p. 18D. ↩︎
    147. Walker, Tom. “Regenstein’s Changes Hands.” The Atlanta Journal, September 24, 1976, p. 11-C. ↩︎
    148. “Changes coming up for Regenstein’s”, The Atlanta Journal and Constitution, February 4, 1985, p. 1C. ↩︎
    149. Bass, Cato. “Robert Regenstein, 83, chairman of Atlanta retailers, Grady board”. The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, March 14, 1998, p. D10. ↩︎
    150. “The Hirsch Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 23, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎

  • West End Academy Expansion (1890-1911)

    Humphries & Norman. West End Academy (left, 1883-1911). Bruce & Morgan. West End Academy Expansion (right, 1890-1911). West End, Atlanta.
    Humphries & Norman. West End Academy (left, 1883-1911). Bruce & Morgan. West End Academy Expansion (right, 1890-1911). West End, Atlanta.1

    The Background

    The article below, published in The Atlanta Constitution in November 1890, describes the expansion of the West End Academy in West End, Georgia, completed in 1890 and designed by Bruce & Morgan.

    Later absorbed into the city of Atlanta, the school’s property consisted of two acres2 on the west side of Lee Street, just north of Gordon Street (later Ralph David Abernathy Boulevard SW).

    Location of West End Academy

    West End Academy was originally founded in 1883,3 4 when West End was still a self-governing municipality separate from Atlanta. Although the academy operated as a public school, tuition was initially charged for each student.5

    The original two-story wood-frame structure for West End Academy was designed by Humphries & Norrman,6 and the primary credit likely belongs to George P. Humphries, who was also a West End resident and, it appears, handled most of the firm’s projects there.

    After Humphries’ death in August 1885, the West End Academy allowed his children to attend the school tuition-free “in consideration of past services to the town,”7 further suggesting his involvement in the school’s design.

    Humphries & Norrman. West End Academy (1883-1911). West End, Atlanta.
    Humphries & Norrman. West End Academy (1883-1911). West End, Atlanta.8

    Construction on West End Academy’s first building began in June 18839 and was completed by October 1883. Although the initial estimate for the project was $5,000,10 11 12 a 1884 report stated the final cost as “the round sum of $10,000,”13 while a 1890 article claimed the cost was $6,500.14

    There isn’t much information about the original structure’s design or number of rooms, but it was said to be “roomy enough for the pleasant occupation of several hundred pupils, if necessary.”15 In 1884, the school reportedly taught 90 students.16

    A Need for Expansion

    By 1890, West End Academy had an enrollment of 297 students,17 and despite the earlier claim of it being “roomy enough” for several hundred, a “patron and friend” described the school’s dangerously overcrowded conditions to the Constitution:

    “Last fall term not less than seventy pupils were seated in a room of only fifty desks … In the principal’s room there were seventy-five pupils and only fifty desks.”18

    The need for expansion was urgent, and in July 1890, the school’s trustees established a building committee for “enlarging and beautifying the academy”, with the imperative to “engage an architect at once to begin work.”19

    They weren’t playing around—in just under three weeks, the office of Bruce & Morgan solicited construction bids for the project, with one day’s notice before the deadline and the repeated instruction: “Work to be begun at once.”20

    Why Bruce & Morgan?

    Since Humphries & Norrman designed West End Academy’s original building in 1884, it’s a little odd that G.L. Norrman wasn’t chosen for the expansion six years later.

    However, Bruce & Morgan were undoubtedly a top choice because of the numerous school buildings the firm had recently designed for Atlanta’s public school system, including the Third and Fifth Ward Grammar Schools.

    And although he would soon make school buildings a specialty, Norrman had designed comparatively few by 1890, and if the original West End Academy was handled by his deceased partner, it would make sense that he wasn’t consulted.

    I also suspect that Norrman didn’t care much for Humphries or his work—it’s just a hunch.

    Even if Norrman had been considered, his office was swamped with work in summer 1890, so a $4,500 project may not have been worth his time and effort.

    Assuming construction began in late July 1890, West End Academy’s expansion was completed in about three months, opening in early November 1890.

    After the Expansion

    When West End was annexed into Atlanta in 1893, ownership of West End Academy was transferred to the City of Atlanta,21 22 and the renamed West End School23 24became part of Atlanta’s public school system.

    By that time, the school had again outgrown its capacity,25 and in 1902, the West End School was described as “probably the worst crowded of the schools.”26 In 1904, a 12-room school was built on nearby Peeples Street to alleviate crowding.27 28

    With the opening of the new West End School, the old West End School was renamed Lee Street School, with plans to add three or four classrooms,29 30 though it’s unclear if that happened.

    In May 1906, a fire in the basement of Lee Street School forced over 200 children to evacuate as smoke filled the building.31 32

    Obviously aware that the all-wood structure was a firetrap, the school’s principal, Eleta A. Mills, was well-prepared for the event and regularly conducted fire drills with the students.33 Remarkably, no one was injured in the fire—except for Mills, who fell down the stairs and hurt her back.34

    As the Constitution described the scene:

    “From the class rooms the children marched in perfect order. Through the hallways, down the stairs they went, the clouds of smoke rising about them and almost stifling them. Yet they never wavered.

    “When the firemen declared that the fire was extinguished, Miss Mills had the children to march back into the school, where they quietly resumed their lessons.

    “The children were not more than a minute getting out of the building, and it was about fifteen minutes that they were held in line.”35

    While there was no structural damage from the fire, the old West End Academy had clearly become a liability—an unsafe, outdated, and undersized hand-me-down from a bygone city and century.

    In 1907, when the Lee Street School reported an enrollment of 320 students,36 L.Z. Rosser, the president of Atlanta’s board of education, described the school as “unsanitary and unfit for use”, adding, “In fact, all the old frame buildings have outgrown their usefulness.”37

    Rosser repeated his criticism in 1908:

    “It is the board’s policy to abolish as rapidly as possible every old school building in the city and whenever we put up a new building it is the safest and most thoroughly equipped that architectural skill can devise. I am frank to say that we still have several old school houses which ought to go, and they will go as fast as the financial appropriation will permit.”38

    The appropriation finally came, and in summer 1910, the Lee Street School was “rolled back”39 40 100 feet to accommodate construction of a new building (pictured below),41 with students using the relocated structure during the interim.42 43 44 That couldn’t have done much for safety.

    Former West End Academy during the construction of Lee Street School in 1911
    Former West End Academy during the construction of Lee Street School in 191145

    Designed by Edward E. Dougherty, the new Lee Street School was completed in August 191146 and was similar to other schools he designed in Atlanta in the same period, built of brick and containing 12 classrooms.47

    The old West End Academy was unceremoniously demolished sometime in 1911, and there’s no evidence anyone objected. A Sanborn map published that year identified the structure as simply “Old School B’ld’g To Be Removed.”48

    The replacement school was torn down in 1969 to make way for the Mall West End,49 which itself is slated for demolition in 2026. Nothing is permanent in Atlanta.


    Humphries & Norman. West End Academy (left, 1883-1911). Bruce & Morgan. West End Academy Expansion (right, 1890-1911). West End, Atlanta.

    The New Academy Building.

    How the West End Academy Has Been Improved.

    The rapid growth of the little city of West End is illustrated by the fact that she has recently been compelled to double the capacity of her public school building in order to meet the increasing demand for school accommodations. The extensive addition to the old structure has been completed, and the entire building now presents a very handsome and imposing appearance. The new part was planned by Messrs. Bruce & Morgan and harmonizes admirably with the old.

    The accompanying cut shows the building as it now stands, and no city of the same size has a more comfortable or better arranged schoolhouse than has West End. The exterior is pleasing to the eye and the interior admirably adapted to school purposes.

    On the first floor is a wide hall traversing the building, into which opens three well-appointed schoolrooms. Along a narrower hall leading from this main one are to be found three smaller rooms, which are to be used as a music room, library and principal’s office, respectively. The music room is so situated that the sound of the pianos cannot be heard in any way of the rest of the building. Three wide, easy stairways lead up to the second floor, where are situated two comfortable schoolrooms and a large auditorium. This auditorium is admirably suited for the opening exercises of the school each morning and for public exercises and is so constructed that it may be easily made into two additional schoolrooms when the increased attendance shall require it. All the rooms are well ventilated and lighted and provided with ample hat and cloak closets.

    The cost of these improvements is $4,000, and will prove to be money well spent for West End.

    The new part of the building was turned over to the school authorities by the contractor last Friday, and that portion of the school which, for the last two months has been occupying the hall over Caldwell’s store, will take possession of their new quarters tomorrow. No doubt the additional room and accommodations offered will be taken advantage of at once by new pupils from West End and vicinity, and by some from Atlanta who have been crowded out of the city schools.

    The school has taken assured rank among the best educational institutions of Atlanta. It is operated on the plan of a public school, being supported by appropriations from the city council and from the county public school fund, supplemented by a nominal tuition fee of $1 to $1.50 per pupil per month. This small tuition fee is charged, because if the school were made entirely free the present rate of taxation (which is now 50 cents on the $100) would have to be nearly doubled in order to pay the deficit in the income of the school.

    The academy is under the control of a board of trustees, who elect the leaders, lay out the course of study, adopt the textbooks, etc., just as is done in other public school systems. This board at present consists of representative men of the city who enjoy fully the confidence of the community. They are as follows: Malcolm Johnston, Dr. John W. Nelms, Burgess Smith, W.L. Wilson, G.A. Howell, W.A. Culver, W.W. Lambdin, E.C. Atkins, M. Taylor and J.C. Harris.

    The principal of the school is Professor E.C. Merry, one of the best equipped teachers of the state. Professor Merry has a splendid reputation in educational circles, and as a disciplinarian and instructor and school manager has few equals. The exercises of the entire school under his skillful management move like clock-work. His assistant teachers, who are Miss Mamie Pitts, Miss Sallie Davis, Miss Mattie Nunnally and Miss Carrie Harden, are all skillful, experienced and enthusiastic. The entire corps seem animated with the single desire to make the West End academy the model school of the state.

    There is also an excellent music department connected with the school, which is presided over by Miss Leila G. Hanbury, an accomplished instructress in instrumental music.

    The academy was never more prosperous than at present, having an average attendance of about 200 pupils, and bids fair with its increased accommodations to raise that average to 250 to 275 before the scholastic year is ended.

    This school in the past has been a powerful factor in West End’s progress, but is now in better shape than ever to contribute towards the growth and upbuilding of that little city.50

    References

    1. Illustration credit: “The West End Academy” (advertisement). The Atlanta Constitution, September 9, 1891, p. 10. ↩︎
    2. “West End Splinters.” The Atlanta Journal, March 15, 1883, p. 4. ↩︎
    3. Public notice. The Atlanta Constitution, April 3, 1883, p. 2. ↩︎
    4. “West End Academy.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 8, 1883, p. 9. ↩︎
    5. ibid. ↩︎
    6. “The Hill Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 16, 1884, p. 4. ↩︎
    7. “West End Notes.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 14, 1885, p. 7. ↩︎
    8. Illustration credit: “West End.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 13, 1887, p. 4. ↩︎
    9. “West End Notes.” The Atlanta Journal, June 25, 1883, p. 4. ↩︎
    10. “West End Splinters.” The Atlanta Journal, May 9, 1883, p. 4. ↩︎
    11. “West End Academy.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 8, 1883, p. 9. ↩︎
    12. “West End Waifs.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 13, 1883, p. 2. ↩︎
    13. “West End Improvements.” The Atlanta Journal, January 11, 1884, p. 4. ↩︎
    14. “West End.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 27, 1890, p. 21. ↩︎
    15. “West End Academy.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 8, 1883, p. 9. ↩︎
    16. “West End Improvements.” The Atlanta Journal, January 11, 1884, p. 4. ↩︎
    17. “The West End Academy.” The Atlanta Constitution, June 20, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    18. “Letters From The People.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 10, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    19. “West End Academy.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 2, 1890, p. 11. ↩︎
    20. “Notice to Contractors.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 21, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    21. “Will Annex.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 14, 1893, p. 5. ↩︎
    22. “Everything In Shape”. The Atlanta Constitution, December 30, 1893, p. 7. ↩︎
    23. “At Atlanta’s Fair.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 27, 1894, p. 10. ↩︎
    24. “Among The Schools.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 9, 1894, p. 4. ↩︎
    25. “Changes To Be Made.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 8, 1893, p. 3. ↩︎
    26. “To Give Room In Crowded Schools”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 13, 1902, p. 8. ↩︎
    27. “Two Schools Will Be Built.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 30, 1903, p. 2. ↩︎
    28. “Mayor Speaks At West End”. The Atlanta Constitution, December 24, 1903, p. 2. ↩︎
    29. “New Schools Completed”. The Atlanta Constitution, July 22, 1904, p. 6. ↩︎
    30. “New School Houses Are Now Complete”. The Atlanta Journal, July 22, 1904, p. 4. ↩︎
    31. “Panic Of Children Is Presented At School When Fire Breaks Out”. The Atlanta Journal, May 11, 1906, p. 1. ↩︎
    32. “Fire Breaks Out In Lee Street School And Panic Is Prevented By Bravery Of Pupils And Faithful Teachers”. The Atlanta Constitution, May 12, 1906, p. 1. ↩︎
    33. “Fire Drills.” The Atlanta Journal, May 12, 1906, p. 6. ↩︎
    34. “Fire Breaks Out In Lee Street School And Panic Is Prevented By Bravery Of Pupils And Faithful Teachers”. The Atlanta Constitution, May 12, 1906, p. 1. ↩︎
    35. ibid. ↩︎
    36. “School Report Is Made On Wednesday”. The Atlanta Journal, September 11, 1907, p. 7. ↩︎
    37. “City Schools In Bad Repair”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 1, 1907, p. 5. ↩︎
    38. “Safety Of Atlanta School Houses Looked Into”. The Atlanta Journal, March 5, 1908, p. 10. ↩︎
    39. “Seventh Ward Club Has First Fall Meeting”. The Atlanta Journal, September 3, 1910, p. 10. ↩︎
    40. “Enthusiastic Meeting Of Seventh Ward Club”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 4, 1910, p. 8. ↩︎
    41. “Building Permits.” The Atlanta Journal, December 2, 1910, p. 19. ↩︎
    42. ‘”Honk-Honk” Law Strikes A Snag”. The Atlanta Constitution, August 2, 1910, p. 7. ↩︎
    43. “Seventh Ward Club Has First Fall Meeting”. The Atlanta Journal, September 3, 1910, p. 10. ↩︎
    44. “Enthusiastic Meeting Of Seventh Ward Club”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 4, 1910, p. 8. ↩︎
    45. Photo credit: “New Bond Issue School House Under Construction”. The Atlanta Journal, February 5, 1911, p. 3. ↩︎
    46. “Lee Street School Will Be In Readiness For The Opening Of School Term In Fall”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 25, 1911, p. 6A. ↩︎
    47. ibid. ↩︎
    48. Insurance maps, Atlanta, Georgia, 1911 / published by the Sanborn Map Company ↩︎
    49. Brown, June. “Rusk in Atlanta For School Rite”. The Atlanta Journal, October 21, 1969, p. 2. ↩︎
    50. “The New Academy Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 2, 1890, p. 24. ↩︎
  • The Casino (1892) – Atlanta

    The Casino (1892). Kiser Law Building, Atlanta.1

    The Background

    The following article, published in The Atlanta Journal in October 1892, describes The Casino, a bar that operated inside the Kiser Law Building in Atlanta.

    Five years after Atlanta’s failed prohibition attempt, its residents were drinking more than ever, and the city issued 80 saloon licenses in 1892.2

    As the Journal noted in 1893:

    “Now, there are about eighty saloons in Atlanta, and by calculating how many glasses of beer are drank an hour in each evening and then multiplying it by the number of saloons, those who do not think that beer drinking is vastly on the increase in Atlanta will find out their mistake.”3

    The Casino tried to distinguish itself as a high-class establishment, and catered exclusively to “first-class trade,”4 but in a building full of lawyers, that was a lofty aspiration.

    It isn’t clear who designed the bar, but the writer of the following article (I suspect it was Walter H. Howard) described the Casino’s interiors as “furnished like unto a king’s palace” and concluded objectively: “well, it is just a great place.”

    A Constitution report from November 1892 provided additional notes, stating that the bar fixtures were “some of Rothschild‘s best makes”, and that the proprietor, Emil Selig, stocked “nothing but the very best to be had in choice brands of wines, liquors and cigars,” with attendants who were “willing to dispense the choicest drinks known to he barkeepers’ art.”5

    The included menu below is, well, an interesting look at what people were eating at the time. Bet their shit stank something awful.

    Of course, Atlanta always has to compare itself to the better cities of the North, and the Casino’s stated intent was to be “to Atlanta what the Hoffman house bar is to New York.”

    That never happened. Despite early descriptions of the bar’s “crowds, who flock daily there”,6 The Casino was out of business by early 1894.7


    The Casino Now Open

    This Palatial Bar Ready For Business.

    Magnificent Saloon in the Kiser Building

    To Atlanta What the Hoffman House Bar is to New York.

    A Description of This Elegant Bar–A Rush at the Grand Opening Today–Catering for the Best Trade.

    The magnificent Casino bar in the Kiser building was thrown open to the public today.

    There was an immense gathering there at the time and all day the clerks have been as busy as bees.

    Everybody admires the exquisite furniture and furnishings, the immense buffet of marble, antique oak and French plate glass mirrors with their mahogany finish and statuary ornaments.

    The room is about 25×100 feet, and it is furnished like unto a king’s palace. The long, rich counters of antique oak with mahogany and marble finish, and the great mirrored sideboards and cabinets, the beautiful frescoed walls and statuary ornaments, the rich, dazzling curtains, the pretty linoleum floor, the costly buffet, the dainty sixteenth century chairs and tables, the smoking hot lunches and the sparkling wines and liquors–well, it is just a great place.

    The Casino is a success from the very jump. It is such a place as has been demanded for a long time and of course it will be liberally patronized.

    The Casino is now on full blast. The hot lunches will be one of its features will be served daily from 11 to 2 o’clock. Cold lunches will be served at all hours.

    The very finest wines and liquors will always be kept in stock, as will also the best tobacco and cigars.

    Following is the bill of fare as served today from 11 to 3 o’clock:

    MENU

    SOUPS.

    Cream of celery.

    Peru tomato.

    Cold slaw. Onions. Slice tomatoes.

    FISH.

    Boiled snapper, Anchovy sauce.

    Pickles. Olives. Diced potatoes.

    BOILED.

    Ham. Tongue.

    ENTREES.

    Saut of kidneys au champignos.

    Potato salad. Sous Herring.

    Salmon. Ox maul salad.

    ROAST.

    Sirloin of beef (soured) a la Jardinare.

    Ferris ham. Champagne sauce.

    COLD.

    Smoke tongue. Ham.

    VEGETABLES.

    Mash potatoes. Tomatoes. Stuffed peppers.

    EXTRAS

    Edam cheese. Roquefort cheese.

    Swiss cheese. Russian caviar crackers.

    The drinks today were all to the health of Mr. Emil Selig and the Casino.

    The very best clerks and attendants have been secured, Mr. R.J. Lewis, the well known club superintendent, being assistant manager.

    Mr. Selig assures his friends and patrons that neither money nor pains will be spared to make the Casino not only the finest and most magnificent bar in Atlanta, but he don’t [sic] propose to let any place in the south eclipse it.

    His purpose is to make the Casino to Atlanta what the Hoffman house bar is to New York.

    The Casino has steam heat and both gas and electric lights. It will cater to the best trade and keep in stock such articles are demanded by that trade.8

    References

    1. Illustration credit: “The Casino Now Open”. The Atlanta Journal, October 11, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    2. “City Notes.” The Atlanta Constitution, June 23, 1892, p. 5. ↩︎
    3. “Tea Table Topics”. The Atlanta Journal, January 4, 1893, p. 4. ↩︎
    4. The Atlanta Journal, October 14, 1892, p. 6. ↩︎
    5. “The Casino.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 11, 1892, p. 5. ↩︎
    6. ibid. ↩︎
    7. “Miscellaneous.” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, March 28, 1894, p. 6. ↩︎
    8. “The Casino Now Open”. The Atlanta Journal, October 11, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
  • Third and Fifth Ward Grammar Schools (1890) – Atlanta

    Bruce & Morgan. Fifth Ward Grammar School / Wallace Street School / State Street School (1890-1929). Atlanta.
    Bruce & Morgan. Fifth Ward Grammar School / Wallace Street School / State Street School (1890-1929). Atlanta.1

    The Background

    The following article, published in The Atlanta Journal in July 1890, describes Atlanta’s Third and Fifth Ward Grammar Schools, completed in 1891 and designed by Bruce & Morgan.

    The Third Ward Grammar School was officially named the Fraser Street School, built on the corner of Fraser and Love Streets in southeast Atlanta.2 3 The school opened on February 9, 1891.4 5

    Location of Third Ward Grammar School

    The Fifth Ward Grammar School, officially named the Wallace Street School6 and later the State Street School,7 was built on a road that no longer exists, occupying a lot in northwest Atlanta that is now part of the Georgia Tech campus.

    The Wallace Street School also opened on February 9, 1891.8

    Location of Fifth Ward Grammar School

    As the leading architectural practice in the Southeast, Bruce & Morgan planned so many academic structures in the 1880s that they published a book of their educational designs, titled Modern School Buildings, in 1889.9 I wish I could find a copy.

    Atlanta’s steady growth in the late 19th century fueled a constant need for new or expanded school buildings, and the Fourth Ward Grammar School, or Boulevard School, completed in 1888,10 was one of the firm’s many designs for the city’s public school system.

    Bruce & Morgan. Fourth Ward Grammar School /Boulevard School (1888). Atlanta.
    Bruce & Morgan. Fourth Ward Grammar School /Boulevard School (1888). Atlanta.11 12

    As noted in the article, Bruce & Morgan also designed the Gray Street Grammar School, which was designated for Black students13 and built on the same plan as the Third and Fifth Ward schools. After the building was completed in 1889, it was said to be “the best school house in Atlanta.”14

    This effusive article was written by our favorite young dynamo, Walter H. Howard, who, as usual, described every nook and cranny of the buildings in enthusiastic detail, such as the stairs that were “free from all winding or devious ways”. Of course, baby boy was only 19 and barely out of school himself, so he may have taken a special interest in the projects.

    Despite Howard’s claim that the Third and Fifth Ward schools represented “a new departure in the architectural style of Atlanta’s grammar schools,” they didn’t appear much different from the Fourth Ward Grammar School, built two years earlier.

    All three of the schools were two-story brick buildings with eight classrooms—one for each grade. They all looked like oversized homes, too, topped with cozy gables and cutesy belfries that weren’t far removed from the one-room schoolhouses of earlier days.

    It was G.L. Norrman‘s 1892 design for the Edgewood Avenue Grammar School in Inman Park that truly marked a shift in Atlanta’s school designs, dispensing with the homey pretense and embracing a bold Renaissance styling that befitted an educational facility in a modern city.

    With Atlanta’s growth continuing unabated in the early 20th century, the schoolhouses from the early 1890s inevitably became outdated and inadequate, and both the Fraser Street and State Street schools were ultimately replaced.

    The Fraser Street School was torn down in August 1923,15 and shortly before the State Street School was demolished in 1929,16 it was reported that “All of State’s contemporaries have been razed.”17


    The New Schools

    Being Built For Atlanta’s Children.

    Details Of Improved Construction.

    The Two New Grammar School Buildings in Course of Erection–A New Departure in School Architecture for Atlanta–Locations.

    The two new public school buildings now in course of erection mark a new departure in the architectural style of Atlanta’s grammar schools.

    The wise decision reached by the board of education some time ago, that hereafter none but brick schools of the most approved pattern should be built, is being carried out most satisfactorily in these two new schools.

    The schools are located, one in the third ward at the corner of Love and Frazier streets, and one in the fifth ward near the corner of Wallace and State streets.

    They are of a similar style of architecture, both exactly alike, and each when completed will cost about $16,000.

    Bruce & Morgan. Grammar School Building (1890). Atlanta.

    To Superintendent Slaton, the members of the committee on public buildings and grounds from the board of education, and to the architects, Messrs. Bruce & Morgan, are due in the main the credit for the advanced type of grammar school buildings in Atlanta.

    The two new schools will be two-story brick buildings, with eight grades each, and precisely similar to the handsome new building known as the Gray street grammar school, in the fifth ward, a school which was only completed this year.

    The new schools will be ready for occupation before the first of January. They will enable the superintendent to seat the larger part of the applicants for places in the schools, and will greatly lessen the size of each school district adjoining them.

    For instance, the one in the Third ward at the corner of Love and Frazier, will relieve both Crew and Fair street schools, both of which were greatly crowded last year.

    Correspondingly, the new school near the corner of Wallace and State streets will take those scholars who are unable to obtain seats in either Davis or Marietta street schools.

    Then again, the new schools are built very near to the present city limits and consequently will be convenient to the citizens who live in the territory recently acquired by the extension of the limits.

    With these two new schools and the Gray street school Atlanta will have three brick schools just alike and of the recent style of school architecture. All the new schools built in the near future will probably be of a similar plan. It will, therefore, be of interest to Atlanta’s citizens and school patrons to know something of these most excellently constructed school buildings.

    In them safety, health, comfort and convenience are combined.

    In the first place everything has been done to well light and ventilate the class rooms. Each room is entered from a door opening on the hall and one opening into a hat and cloak room, which also has a door opening into the hall. The windows are very large and are placed on the side and end of the room. The teacher’s stand is placed at the dark end of the room, so that the light comes in from the near and left of the pupil. The end endeavored to be attained in the ventilation of these buildings is to practically put the scholars as much out of doors as possible.

    The ventilation and heating is most carefully looked after. The rooms will be heated by steam and the foul air all carried rapidly off by large ventilation shafts.

    The halls up and down stairs are very large and well lighted. There are two wide entrances admitting fresh air. Then the stair cases are unusually wide and free from all winding or devious ways, sloping not too much.

    The great object to be attained in having the great wide exits, the large open hallways and the large stairways is the prevention of danger or panic in cases of fire. One of the greatest safeguards against panics is the admirable manner in which the superintendent keeps the children instructed in the fire drill, but then the proper construction of the buildings lessens the danger very greatly.

    Summed up briefly, the other advantages to be found in the construction of the new style school buildings are, perfect sanitation, abundance of room, economy of space, durability of the buildings, excellent acoustical conditions, and the neat and comfortable manner in which the class rooms are furnished.

    The buildings are not only constructed substantially, but with a view to beauty as well. The floors are deadened so as to destroy sound, and the doors are constructed so that all open on the outside, thus lessening the danger in case of a panic.

    Nothing has done more toward building Atlanta up and in making her a great city than her excellent system of public schools, and the new departure in the style of her school buildings will greatly increase the efficiency and the value of her great public school system–already the best at the south.

    Walter H. Howard.18

    References

    1. Illustration credit: City of Atlanta: A Descriptive, Historical and Industrial Review. Louisville, Kentucky: The Inter-State Publishing Company, 1892-93, p. 25. ↩︎
    2. “Finance Committee.” The Atlanta Constitution, May 30, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    3. “The Public Schools.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 27, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    4. “Little Locals.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 4, 1891, p. 5. ↩︎
    5. “They Are Open.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 10, 1891, p. 3. ↩︎
    6. “The Public Schools.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 27, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    7. “State St. School Closing Fortieth Year Of Service”. The Atlanta Journal, May 5, 1929, p. 10. ↩︎
    8. “They Are Open.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 10, 1891, p. 3. ↩︎
    9. “From Our Notebook.” The Atlanta Constitution, June 23, 1889, p. 17. ↩︎
    10. “The Boulevard School”. The Atlanta Constitution, October 14, 1888, p. 12. ↩︎
    11. “Notice to Contractors”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 7, 1888, p. 8. ↩︎
    12. Illustration credit: City of Atlanta: A Descriptive, Historical and Industrial Review. Louisville, Kentucky: The Inter-State Publishing Company, 1892-93, p. 23. ↩︎
    13. “The Public Schools.” The Atlanta Constitution, December 28, 1888, p. 8. ↩︎
    14. “Major Slaton’s Report”. The Atlanta Constitution, February 6, 1890, p. 6. ↩︎
    15. “Wrecking” (advertisement). The Atlanta Journal, August 27, 1923, p. 16. ↩︎
    16. “6 School Structures Tentatively Accepted By Education Board”. The Atlanta Journal, May 15, 1929, p. 4. ↩︎
    17. Pitts, Mamie Louise. “State St. School to Celebrate Thirty-Ninth Anniversary”. The Atlanta Journal, January 27, 1929, p. 12N. ↩︎
    18. Howard, Walter H. “The New Schools”. The Atlanta Journal, July 12, 1890, p. 1. ↩︎
  • Confederate Soldiers’ Home (1891-1901) – Atlanta

    Bruce & Morgan. Confederate Soldiers' Home (1891-1901). Atlanta.
    Bruce & Morgan. Confederate Soldiers’ Home (1891-1901). Atlanta.1

    The Background

    The following article, published in The Atlanta Journal in April 1890, describes the Confederate Soldiers’ Home in Atlanta, completed in 1891 and designed by A.C. Bruce of Bruce & Morgan.

    Planned to house 150 to 200 people,2 the facility was built on 125 acres located two miles southeast of Atlanta and connected to Grant Park3 by a 1.5-mile dirt road that became known as Confederate Avenue (later United Avenue SE).

    Location of Confederate Soldiers’ Home

    The Origins of the Home

    The project was first proposed in April 1889 by Henry W. Grady, editor of The Atlanta Constitution, although it was hardly his own conception.

    In late 1888 and early 1889, Major Joe E. Stewart of Austin, Texas, traveled to the Northeast and began fundraising appeals in Boston and New York to support an existing home for Confederate veterans in Austin.4 5

    Why Stewart considered that a good idea was anyone’s guess, since no self-respecting Northener would’ve given a damn about aiding the ex-soldiers of a treasonous rebellion. As the Mail and Express of New York opined bluntly:

    “Major Stewart’s advocacy of the scheme for a Confederate Soldiers’ Home will not find favor here. That is not a matter of National concern…but is distinctly anti-National and to be discouraged.”6

    Needless to say, Stewart’s ill-conceived fundraising tour was a failure, and the soldiers’ home in Austin, Texas, received only $1500 in donations from Northern contributors.7

    Always full of self-righteous fervor, Henry Grady seized on the story in one of his typical bloviating editorials for the Constitution, proclaiming that Confederate soldiers should be aided by Southern money, making an impassioned plea to build a veterans’ home in Georgia for those who “suffered in her cause” — that is to say, those who fought for human slavery. Spare me the states’ rights bullshit.

    Grady wrote, in part:

    “Come home, Major Stewart, and let us take care our heroes to our own hearts, and wear them there, never to be paraded again with their limping gait, their poor wounds and their shabby raiment through the lines of strangers, of whom charity is begged for their behalf!

    “But we need Confederate Homes! In every state there are men wearing honorable scars who are poor and helpless.

    “WE MUST BUILD A CONFEDERATE HOME in GEORGIA! We must built it at once! We must show that Georgia’s heart beats true to the men who suffered in her cause–and that she will take them to her heart!”8

    Grady began a public fundraising campaign for the project, with the Constitution contributing the first $1,000. The campaign reportedly received over $10,000 in pledges within 12 hours of the newspaper’s distribution,9 and nine days later, an organization overseeing the project was incorporated with a board of 25 directors led by Grady.10 Credit them for moving quickly.

    Confederate Soldiers' Home
    Confederate Soldiers’ Home11

    Design and Construction

    While it was initially reported that the project’s building committee accepted a plan by W.T. Downing of Wheeler & Downing,12 G.L. Norrman also submitted plans, and A.C. Bruce13 of Bruce & Morgan ultimately secured the commission.14 It undoubtedly helped that A.C. Bruce was also a Confederate veteran.

    Looking every bit like a fashionable summer hotel, Bruce’s design for the Confederate Soldiers’ Home was one of his better efforts: a rambling structure of two to three stories, primarily Queen Anne style, with all the expected eclecticism and embellishments of the era, including a 120-foot-tall turret.

    Construction began in November 1889,15 and the building’s cornerstone was laid in a public ceremony on Confederate Memorial Day, April 26, 1890.16 17 The structure was completed in January 1891,18 19 and while the project was initially estimated at $22,000,20 the final cost was $27,699.25.21

    Another Lost Cause

    Although the Constitution set a goal of $50,000 in subscriptions for the project,22 23 24 the Confederate Soldiers’ Home ultimately received just over $41,000, leaving only $41.01 in available funds at the building’s completion.25 Henry Grady died in December 1889, and it’s safe to assume the project’s funding faltered in the absence of his leadership.

    The project’s directors should have taken a cue from Atlanta’s Carrie Steele Orphans’ Home, which was under construction at the same time and similarly funded by popular subscription. The original plans for the orphanage — also designed by Bruce & Morgan — were apparently dropped in favor of a simpler structure to accommodate reduced funding.

    We’re talking about Atlanta, though, where show and spectacle have always been prioritized over fiscal responsibility, and one of the directors of the veterans’ home project even admitted that the committee splurged on “extras in the form of a slate roof, etc.,” adding at least $1000 to the total cost.26

    As it became clear that the organization lacked the funds to operate its shiny new facility, the directors decided to unload it on the State of Georgia, offering the entire property to the state government on the condition that it shelter veterans for 25 years, after which it could be used for other purposes.27 28 Too bad the state didn’t want it.

    In November 1890, a bill was introduced in the state legislature to operate the home as a public facility,29 although it was defeated in August 1891.30 A similar bill was shelved in December 1892,31 32 and a third attempt was killed when lawmakers deferred it to a finance committee.33

    Partially fueling the legislature’s refusals was the simmering resentment Georgia’s bumfuck politicians have long held against the city, knowing full well the state would be Mississippi without Atlanta. Some legislators apparently dismissed the project as a typical Atlanta “speculative scheme,”34 35 and frankly, they weren’t entirely wrong on that count.

    In 1894, the Confederate Soldiers’ Home even became a contentious topic in the state’s gubernatorial race. The leading candidate was William Yates Atkinson, a former speaker of the Georgia House of Representatives, who voted against the home and actively denounced the project on the campaign trail, telling attendees at one event:

    “The friends of the home didn’t care anything about it, but they wanted it accepted because it was located in Atlanta.

    “That home was a regular poor house and they wanted to send you needy veterans to that Atlanta poor house, where you would be under a master to whom you would have to beg like a slave for the necessities of life.”36

    Oh, the irony.

    Atkinson won the election, and in January 1895, the Confederate Soldiers’ Home was “still uninhabited, save by a lone watchman,”37 when the organization decided to sell the property.38 39

    Confederate Soldiers' Home, 1901 illustration
    Confederate Soldiers’ Home, 1901 illustration40

    Myth and Mayhem

    By the mid-to-late 1890s, it had become glaringly obvious that the New South myth was utter bullshit. The chief promulgator, Henry Grady, was long dead, and like the grand mansions that sat vacant for years in Atlanta’s Inman Park, the Confederate Soldiers’ Home was left to rot because no one could pony up the cash — even for the soldiers of Georgia’s vaunted “cause.”

    The decision to sell the facility prompted a lawsuit from the local real estate company that initially donated the land, claiming they had done so with the understanding that the property would be used solely for a veterans’ home.41

    The trial ended with a judge’s order to sell the property,42 43 but an effort to sell in April 189644 was apparently dropped, and a second attempt in 1897 was delayed by the Daughters of the Confederacy, who wanted another chance to woo the state legislature into operating the facility.45 That also failed.

    A published description of the property in 1897 portrayed a bleak scene:

    “The home is three stories high and is of beautiful architecture. It was once painted, but no one would at present suspect it.

    “The sides are weather beaten and many of the planks are beginning to decay. The old windmill with the tank on the top is now grown up with vines and shows that it has not been in use for some time. The walks, which wind in and about the premises in the immediate neighborhood of the building, and which were once well kept, are now grown up with grass and weeds.

    “The approach to the home for a quarter of a mile is almost as gloomy as the building itself, and one would suspect that he was in the neighborhood, even though the building had not been sighted. The street car track which was laid when the home was built and when it was thought that there was no doubt but what it would soon be inhabited by many veterans, is now in a state of decay. The rails are rusty, the bed has in many places caved in and is covered with weeds.

    “The little road which had been graded along side, is now grown up with shrubbery, and the lizards dart away at the approach of a chance pedestrian.”46

    In April 1898, an attempt to sell the home on the steps of the Fulton County Courthouse was halted because the highest bid was only $10,000.47

    A year later, another public auction resulted in an even lower winning bid: $8,000, offered by Joel Hurt,48 who reportedly “had not intended to buy the property when he went to the sale, and only did it to help the veterans out.”49

    That sale was also denied,50 and the property remained unsold and vacant, with no hope of eventual use in sight.

    A Blaze of Glory

    In 1900, nearly ten years after the Confederate Soldiers’ Home was completed, a group of Confederate veterans, led by Major W.T. Gary,51 once again lobbied the Georgia legislature to operate the facility, aided by the recommendation of a new, more sympathetic governor, Allen D. Candler.52

    Worn down by the state’s repeated rejections, it was a shock to everyone involved when the Soldiers’ Home Bill was passed in December 1900 by a vote of 106 to 50,53 54 and the facility finally opened on June 3, 1901.55 56

    Ah, but it’s Atlanta, so you know there’s a shitty twist ending.

    Before it had been occupied for even four months, the Confederate Soldiers’ Home was destroyed by fire on September 30, 1901.57 58

    The building’s restroom (just the one?) apparently incorporated the “Smead dry closet“, in which facilities without sewer access could collect feces and burn it into a fine powder — a novel solution in 1890, but quite outdated by 1901, when flush toilets had become the accepted standard.

    As the Journal explained:

    “In the lavatory the Smead system of disposing of the refuse was used. Daily the crematory in connection with the lavatory was fired up.

    The negro porter who started these fires this morning placed a wheelbarrow load of shavings and other timber from the premises into the furnace. The fire burned fiercely and broke through the top of the furnace.

    “When Dr. Bryan went into the department he noticed the flames. He ran out and asked if the flames were not too high.

    “Superintendent James L. Wilson seeing the condition of the fire quickly gave the alarm. By this time the flames had commenced to burn the woodwork in the vicinity of the furnace.

    “The smoke was pouring into the center of the house in great volumes, and owing to the draft at this place the flames spread rapidly.”59

    Of course, they tried to pin the blame on the Black man, but after sitting unused for ten years, the furnace was probably a faulty mess. Or maybe the place was just haunted by Sherman‘s ghost.


    Bruce & Morgan. Confederate Soldiers' Home (1891-1901). Atlanta.
    Bruce & Morgan. Confederate Soldiers’ Home (1891-1901). Atlanta.

    We Love Them

    And Now In Their Declining Years

    We Will Shelter Them.

    Something About the Home to be Occupied by the Soldiers

    Who Shed Their Blood For The Southern Land–A Description of the New Building Soon to be Completed for the Veterans.

    The veterans will soon be quartered in their new home.

    The plans for the building were prepared by Messrs. Bruce & Morgan.

    The contract was awarded to Messrs. Austin & Boylston.

    The building will be one hundred and eighty feet long, and at the south end, the widest portion, one hundred feet in width.

    The approach will be through a “Porte coache,” [sic] and the entrance will be handsomely finished and attractive. On either side of the main entrance there will be niches for statuary.

    On the first floor are a main hall, corridors, reception rooms, a parlor, a chapel, a sitting room, office, dining room, kitchen, pantry, laundry and bed rooms.

    You first enter a large hall, handsomely finished, 32×50 feet. On the right are the ladies’ reception room and parlors and on the left the gentlemen’s reception room. Adjoining the latter is a reading room. The sitting room is 25×59 feet, and will be used by the old soldiers when the weather will not permit them to go out of doors.

    The office is in the main hall.

    The “memorial chapel” is in front of the building, and to the left of the main entrance. It will be used for divine services, banquets and public receptions.

    The dining room is 36×40 feet, and will seat one hundred people. The kitchen and pantries are a one-story wing and adjoin the dining hall. The laundry is beneath the kitchen.

    There are ten bed rooms on this floor.

    Two hundred and seventy-five feet of wide verandahs surround the first floor.

    There are thirty rooms on the second floor, the smallest of which are 12×14 feet, and the largest 15×18.

    Each bedroom has a fireplace and two windows.

    There are several easily accessible staircases leading to the first floor.

    On the second floor there are three balconies, one in the center of the building and one on each side.

    A portion of one wing of the building is three stories high, and in this upper story are ten bedrooms.

    The turret, the highest point of which is one hundred and twenty feet from the ground, is of an octagon shape.

    A large balcony surrounds the building seventy-five feet from the ground, and from it an excellent view of the city can be had.

    The foundation of the building will be stone and the balance of wood, inside the wood work will be natural pine, and the main hall will be panel-wainscotted.

    It will cost between twenty and twenty-five thousand dollars and will be one of the handsomest buildings in the county.60

    References

    1. Illustration credit: “We Love Them”. The Atlanta Journal, April 26, 1890, p. 12. ↩︎
    2. “The Veterans’ Home”. The Atlanta Journal, December 9, 1890, p. 1. ↩︎
    3. “Veterans’ Home”. The Atlanta Journal, May 9, 1889, p. 4. ↩︎
    4. “Ex-Confederate Home.” Austin Weekly Statesman (Austin, Texas), November 1, 1888, p. 4. ↩︎
    5. “To Aid Confederate Soldiers.” New-York Tribune, February 7, 1889, p. 3. ↩︎
    6. “Echoes From The People.” The World (New York), January 31, 1889, p. 2. ↩︎
    7. “The Confederates Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 2, 1889, p. 1. ↩︎
    8. “Shall We Go Begging For Them?” The Atlanta Constitution, April 6, 1889, p. 4. ↩︎
    9. “Let Us Wear Them In Our Hearts!” The Atlanta Constitution, April 7, 1899, p. 17. ↩︎
    10. “The Soldiers’ Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 26, 1890, p. 15. ↩︎
    11. Illustration credit: “The Soldiers’ Home”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 26, 1890, p. 15. ↩︎
    12. “The Confederate Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 11, 1889, p. 7. ↩︎
    13. “The Trustees Meet.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 17, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    14. “In And About Atlanta.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 21, 1889, p. 5. ↩︎
    15. “The Confederate Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 24, 1889, p. 11. ↩︎
    16. “To Lay The Corner-Stone.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 15, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    17. “Confederate Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 25, 1890, p. 9. ↩︎
    18. “The Veterans’ Home”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 9, 1891, p. 6. ↩︎
    19. “Strong Effort To Pass Gary Bill”. The Atlanta Constitution, November 25, 1900, p. 4. ↩︎
    20. “In And About Atlanta.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 21, 1889, p. 5. ↩︎
    21. “The Trustees Meet.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 17, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    22. ‘The Confederate “Home” Movement.’ The Atlanta Constitution, April 9, 1889, p. 4. ↩︎
    23. “It Is Still Moving On!” The Atlanta Constitution, April 16, 1889, p. 4. ↩︎
    24. “The Confederate Home of Georgia Organized.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 19, 1889, p. 4. ↩︎
    25. “The Trustees Meet.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 17, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    26. “The Idler’s Note Book”. The Atlanta Journal, September 9, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    27. “About The Capitol.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 19, 1890, p. 16. ↩︎
    28. “Confederate Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 22, 1890, p. 10. ↩︎
    29. ibid. ↩︎
    30. “Defeated!” The Atlanta Constitution, August 27, 1891, p. 1. ↩︎
    31. “Defeat The Fate.” The Atlanta Constitution, December 15, 1892, p. 7. ↩︎
    32. “The Veterans Mourn.” The Atlanta Journal, December 15, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    33. “Confederate Soldiers’ Home Is Sold To Joel Hurt For $8,000”. The Atlanta Constitution, May 3, 1899, p. 5. ↩︎
    34. “The Greeks Bearing Gifts.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 5, 1891, p. 4. ↩︎
    35. “The Soldiers’ Home”. The Atlanta Constitution, November 24, 1892, p. 8. ↩︎
    36. “Those Joint Debates.” The Atlanta Journal, March 31, 1894, p. 13. ↩︎
    37. “Trustees Will Meet”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 22, 1895, p. 10. ↩︎
    38. “To Sell It In The Spring”. The Atlanta Journal, January 29, 1895, p. 1. ↩︎
    39. “The Home To Be Sold”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 30, 1895, p. 5. ↩︎
    40. Illustration credit: “Soldiers’ Home Opens Its Doors To Veterans Today”. The Atlanta Journal, June 3, 1901, p. 7. ↩︎
    41. “The Soldiers’ Home Case.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 4, 1895, p. 5. ↩︎
    42. “To Sell The Soldiers’ Home”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 17, 1895, p. 5. ↩︎
    43. “The Soldiers’ Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, December 18, 1895, p. 8. ↩︎
    44. “Sale of Soldiers’ Home Property.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 31, 1896, p. 10. ↩︎
    45. “Home Trustees Have Not Acted”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 3, 1897, p. 12. ↩︎
    46. “Soldiers’ Home To Be Sold. Court’s Order Expected Any Time”. The Atlanta Constitution, May 24, 1897, p. 6. ↩︎
    47. “Sale Of Home Declared Off”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 6, 1898, p. 5. ↩︎
    48. “Confederate Soldiers’ Home Is Sold To Joel Hurt For $8,000”. The Atlanta Constitution, May 3, 1899, p. 5. ↩︎
    49. “Soldiers’ Home Sells For $8,000 At Auction”. The Atlanta Journal, May 2, 1899, p. 1. ↩︎
    50. “Sale Of The Home Is Not Confirmed”. The Atlanta Constitution, May 22, 1889, p. 8. ↩︎
    51. Gary, W.T. “Why We Should Accept Confederate Home.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 13, 1900, p. 4. ↩︎
    52. “Veterans Fighting For Soldiers’ Home”. The Atlanta Journal, November 20, 1900, p. 10. ↩︎
    53. “Soldiers’ Home Bill Passed By House; Georgia Veterans Will Have Shelter At Last After Waiting Eleven Years”. The Atlanta Journal, December 12, 1900, p. 1. ↩︎
    54. “Georgia Veterans Get Their Home By The Vote Of 106 To 50”. The Atlanta Constitution, December 13, 1900, p. 1. ↩︎
    55. “Soldiers’ Home Will Be Opened To Vets Today”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 3, 1901, p. 1. ↩︎
    56. “Soldiers’ Home Opens Its Doors To Veterans Today”. The Atlanta Journal, June 3, 1901, p. 7. ↩︎
    57. “Soldiers’ Home Totally Destroyed: Generous People Will Rebuild It; Journal Leases Hotel For Vets”. The Atlanta Journal, September 30, 1901, p. 1. ↩︎
    58. “Soldiers’ Home, Destroyed By Flames That Relit The Fire Of A Smouldering Sympathy, Will Be Rebuilt By Georgians”. The Atlanta Constitution, October 1, 1901, p. 1. ↩︎
    59. ibid. ↩︎
    60. “We Love Them”. The Atlanta Journal, April 26, 1890, p. 12. ↩︎
  • William J. Speer Residence – Atlanta (1890-1911)

    G.L. Norrman. William J. Speer Residence (1890-1911). Atlanta.
    G.L. Norrman. William J. Speer Residence (1890-1911). Atlanta.1

    The Background

    The following excerpt is from an article published in The Atlanta Constitution in April 1891, and describes the William J. Speer Residence in Atlanta, built in 1890 and designed by G.L. Norrman.

    The Speer residence was located on the northwest corner of Peachtree Street and North Avenue, at 544 Peachtree Street2 3 (later 620 Peachtree Street NE) in what is now Midtown Atlanta.

    Location of William J. Speer Residence

    About William J. Speer

    In 1890, William J. Speer (1846-19314, pictured here5) served as assistant treasurer for the State of Georgia, first appointed in 1880 by his brother, Daniel Speer, who was the state treasurer.6 7 No nepotism there.

    William J. Speer was elected state treasurer in 18968 and resigned from the position in 1900, citing unspecified health issues.9 He was re-elected in 1911 and served in the position until two weeks before his death at the age of 85, making him “the oldest state official in point of service.”10

    G.L. Norrman was likely well acquainted with the Speer family: one of his earliest projects in Atlanta was for the Peachtree Street residence of Daniel Speer,11 12 and Norrman and William J. Speer were both members of the Capital City Club.13

    Design and Construction

    If there’s a surviving photograph of the Speer residence, I’ve never seen it. However, based on the accompanying illustration shown above, it appears the home was a duplicate of Norrman’s plan for the Samuel McGowan Residence (1889, pictured below) in Abbeville, South Carolina, which still exists.

    G.L. Norrman. Samuel McGowan Residence (1889). Abbeville, South Carolina.
    G.L. Norrman. Samuel McGowan Residence (1889). Abbeville, South Carolina.14

    In 1889 and 1890, Norrman’s output rapidly increased, and with several large-scale commissions, his office was clearly swamped with work.

    While he was never above reusing plans to save time and money, Norrman was usually savvy about concealing the practice, altering a home’s porches or roof line, for instance, or maybe adding a turret or other stylistic flourishes to differentiate its appearance from a design predecessor.

    In this case, however, he didn’t even bother, only swapping out the McGowan house’s Queen Anne and Palladian elements for a nebulous Chateauesque skin on the Speer residence.

    The materials were also substantially different: the McGowan house was built with cheaper wood siding and shingles, while Speer’s “palatial mansion”15 was faced with brick, stone, and terra cotta. Otherwise, besides a few altered windows, the two homes’ facades appear interchangeable.

    For an architect whose “designs were noted for originality,”16 Norrman’s copy of his own work posed some reputational risk, yet with 150 miles between Atlanta and Abbeville, the chances were slim to none that anyone from either place would see both homes.

    The Speer residence was first announced in March 1889 with an estimated cost of $40,000 to $50,000.17 18 While the home was under construction in December 1889, it was said to be “one of the most magnificent and costly on Peachtree.”19 As completion neared in January 1890, the project’s cost was reported as both $20,00020 21 and $30,000.22

    About the Interior

    In October 1890, the Speers hosted their first formal event in the new residence, described as the “first elaborate reception given this season.”23 The party ostensibly celebrated the Speers’ daughter, Annie, who made her formal social debut the previous year.24

    Managing the state treasury was obviously lucrative, and the Speers used the event to show off their home’s lavishly-appointed interiors, which the Constitution predictably gushed over in exacting detail:

    “The guests entered a splendid hallway, with a massive mantel opposite the front portal. On either side the mirrors were superb candelabras of beaten silver, with candles of pale pink and blue. The woodwork is of English oak. The wide hearth has brown tiling, and is finished with beaten bronze. The back of the great fireplace has a superb bronze basrelief [sic]. A carved oak arch on the left and an arched passageway gives a view of the winding, carved oaken stairway, with its wide landing and its rich opaline glass windows. The carpet is in … browns and tans, so is the wall, and the chandeliers are of colored bronze.

    The interior of the house was planned by Mrs. Speer, but Mr. Speer furnished the library, one of the most tasteful and elegant apartments. The window and book case curtains are of yellow Indian silk. The carpet is an Axminster in rich, dull tones, the walls are pale chocolate, the wood work carved English oak and the furniture deliciously comfortable and easy, is of carved oak upholstered in plain and stamped leather.

    Two oak chairs with odd, richly carved backs and seats of handsomely stamped leather are particularly beautiful and unique; the ornaments of bronze and terracotta on the mantel are superb.

    The … drawing room is all in the daintiest tones. The walls and rich carpet are pale blue and cream; the hangings white lace and pale blue India silk, sprinkled with flowers; the chandeliers silver, with white tapers encircling the large center globe light. The superb Louis X furniture was made to order and is upholostered in tapestry stuffs of richest brocade, with center pieces in quaint … designs. The drawing room opens into the dining room, whose carpet and walls are of delicate gray-blue. The furniture and wood work is cherry, the chandeliers silver. The chandeliers are as unique as handsome.”25

    An Unhappy Home

    Despite the opulence of their home, the Speers appear to have been typical Atlanta trash, and their domestic life was anything but a charmed one.

    In September 1903, Speer’s wife, Geraldine, filed for divorce, alleging that her husband was “an habitual drunkard, having been continually drunk for over a year,”26 and that the couple had been effectively separated for three years. Mrs. Speer further claimed that her husband had recently come home in a drunken rage and assaulted their son, John, leaving her fearing for her life.27 28

    “A handsome residence on Peachtree street is not always enough to make a woman satisfied,” one newspaper quipped.29

    And that wasn’t the first violent incident in the home.

    The Wood Affair

    On the morning of December 20, 1902, Mrs. W.J. Wood entered the parlor of the Speer residence and fired a gun at Mary Ballinger, a seamstress who worked for the family.30 31

    “You know that you have come between my husband and myself and caused him to abuse me,”32 Wood reportedly screamed at Ballinger as she whipped out a .32 caliber pistol, shooting four times but missing her target.33 34

    Wood’s husband was a “well known bartender”35 at the Globe Saloon on North Broad Street,36 and she suspected that Ballinger was “responsible for the alienation of her husband’s affections.”37

    Wood turned herself in to the authorities shortly after the shooting, declaring, “I have killed her! I have killed her!” Upon learning that Ballinger was unharmed, it was said that Wood’s “only regret is that she did not succeed.”38

    An attempt to declare Wood insane failed,39 40 and she was released from jail within days.41 42 It was hardly surprising when she tried to murder her husband seven months later at his apartment on Marietta Street, shooting him five times, once successfully in the abdomen43 44 — apparently her aim improved.

    When she was found hiding in a house on Hill Street and subsequently arrested, Wood reportedly said, “Is he dead? I hope he is. He has ruined my life; he has wrecked my hopes. I had to do it. I was forced to do it. I hope he will die; oh! I hope he will die!”45 Atlanta’s hysterical narcissism is exhausting.

    A Quiet Demise

    Needless to say, a shooting inside a Peachtree Street home “caused a sensation in that neighborhood,”46 and the Speers’ divorce soon afterward must have inflicted irreparable damage on the family’s social standing.

    Always objective, the local press reported Geraldine’s claims with a tone of heavy skepticism. “None of his friends here believe the charges…that he has been guilty of drunkenness and cruelty,” one article stated.47 Typical.

    Geraldine Speer dropped an alimony suit against her husband when he paid her a lump-sum settlement in September 1903,48 49 and the divorce was finalized in 1906.50

    After 14 years in the home, in May 1904, Geraldine and her four children moved south of Atlanta to the nearby town of College Park, Georgia,51 a far cry from the tony trappings of Peachtree Street. Her death in January 1909 was barely noted in the Atlanta newspapers.52 53

    Later biographies of William J. Speer were thoroughly revisionist, omitting any mention of the divorce and falsely claiming he married his second wife following Geraldine’s death.54 55 Such are the lies history is built on.

    Quiet Passing

    The former Speer residence was quietly sold in summer 1904 to Mr. and Mrs. J. Wylie Pope,56 who made $1,500 worth of unspecified “repairs and additions” to the structure in 1905.57 When the Popes occupied the property, it was described as “one of the few homes in Atlanta that has a large and beautiful rose garden attached.”58 So there’s that.

    In 1908, the Popes moved into an apartment in Atlanta’s Majestic Hotel, selling the home to J.C. Cooper of Athens, Georgia,59 who, in turn, sold the property to a pair of developers sometime after late 1910.60 61

    By 1911, Peachtree Street was rapidly transforming into a primarily commercial corridor, and the fussy grand homes built just a decade or two earlier had already become outmoded as Atlanta’s wealthiest citizens either moved out to the suburban developments of Ansley Park, Druid Hills, and Buckhead or began occupying luxury apartments in the city.

    With the towering Georgian Terrace Hotel rising one block north of the 21-year-old Speer house, there was barely a peep when the home was demolished in May 1911,62 63replaced by a one-story building with four retail stores.64 65


    G.L. Norrman. William J. Speer Residence (1890-1911). Atlanta.
    G.L. Norrman. William J. Speer Residence (1890-1911). Atlanta.

    Article Excerpt

    The residence of Mr. Speer, built on the corner of North avenue and Peachtree street, is in the early French renaissance style, more commonly known as Chateau. The exterior is composed of brick, stone and terra-cotta. A wide veranda runs the whole front and terminates on each side near the middle elevation. The front entrance is a stone and terra-cotta archway, openings with a wide vestibule with tile floors and arches leading out on verandas on each side. The hall and stairway are finished in oak, and has at one end an octagon bay window with seats, and at the other a large fireplace, with seats and at the other a large fireplace with seats under the arch which runs up to the first landing on the stairs, and from which you can look down into the hall. Sliding doors connect the hall, sitting room, parlor and dining room, so that, when thrown open, the whole front of the first floor is utilized. The parlor is finished in maple with elaborate carvings on mantel and in panels. The dining room is finished in oak, and contains a magnificent sideboard, and aisles so connected as to make all the details of the room correspond and harmonize.

    The house is a perfect harmony throughout, and reflects great credit upon Mr. G.L. Norrman, the architect.66

    References

    1. Illustration credit: “New Homes On The Peachtrees.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 19, 1891, p. 10. ↩︎
    2. Atlanta City Directory Co.’s Greater Atlanta (Georgia) city directory (1893) ↩︎
    3. Insurance maps of Atlanta, Georgia, 1899 / published by the Sanborn-Perris Map Co. Limited – Digital Library of Georgia ↩︎
    4. “Captain Speer, Treasurer Of State, Is Dead”. The Atlanta Journal, December 29, 1931, p. 1. ↩︎
    5. Illustration credit: “Democratic State Ticket–The Men Who Are Now”. The Atlanta Journal, August 29, 1896, p. 12. ↩︎
    6. “Treasurer Hardeman Will Retire.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 29, 1896, p. 4. ↩︎
    7. “Captain Speer, Treasurer Of State, Is Dead”. The Atlanta Journal, December 29, 1931, p. 1. ↩︎
    8. “Captain Furlow To Be Appointed”. The Atlanta Journal, October 8, 1896, p. 10. ↩︎
    9. “State Treasury Changes Hands”. The Atlanta Constitution, October 30, 1900, p. 5. ↩︎
    10. “Captain Speer, Treasurer Of State, Is Dead”. The Atlanta Journal, December 29, 1931, p. 1. ↩︎
    11. “Real Estate Notes.” The Atlanta Constitution, May 8, 1882, p. 7. ↩︎
    12. “Atlanta’s Growth.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 6, 1882, p. 7. ↩︎
    13. “The Club Receives”. The Atlanta Constitution, December 28, 1888, p. 5. ↩︎
    14. “An Ornament To The Town.” The News & Courier (Charleston, South Carolina), January 14, 1889, p. 6. ↩︎
    15. “Belles And Beauties.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 3, 1889, p. 16. ↩︎
    16. “Well Known In Durham”. Greensboro Daily News (Greensboro, North Carolina), November 19, 1909, p. 2. ↩︎
    17. “Home Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 20, 1889, p. 8. ↩︎
    18. “Real Estate Notes.” The Atlanta Journal, May 25, 1889, p. 2. ↩︎
    19. “Belles And Beauties.” The Atlanta Constitution, November 3, 1889, p. 16. ↩︎
    20. “Brighter Than Ever.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 13, 1890, p. 6. ↩︎
    21. “A Splendid Showing.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 14, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    22. “Peachtree Street.” The Atlanta Journal, January 20, 1890, p. 1. ↩︎
    23. “Society”. The Atlanta Journal, October 16, 1890, p. 2. ↩︎
    24. ibid. ↩︎
    25. “A Brilliant Event.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 16, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    26. “Asks For Divorce”. Savannah Morning News (Savannah, Georgia), September 9, 1903, p. 1. ↩︎
    27. “Mrs. Wm. J. Speer Seeks Divorce”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 9, 1903, p. 8. ↩︎
    28. “Asks For Divorce”. Savannah Morning News (Savannah, Georgia), September 9, 1903, p. 1. ↩︎
    29. The Griffin Weekly News (Griffin, Georgia), September 11, 1903, p. 4. ↩︎
    30. “I Have Killed Her With This Pistol”. The Atlanta Journal, December 20, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    31. “Jealous Wife Uses Pistol”. The Atlanta Constitution, December 21, 1902, p. 12. ↩︎
    32. “I Have Killed Her With This Pistol”. The Atlanta Journal, December 20, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    33. ibid. ↩︎
    34. “Jealous Wife Uses Pistol”. The Atlanta Constitution, December 21, 1902, p. 12. ↩︎
    35. “Jealous Woman Shoots Her Husband Fatally”. The Atlanta Journal, July 29, 1903, p. 1. ↩︎
    36. “Jealous Woman Who Shot To Kill Is Insane Declares Her Husband”. The Atlanta Journal, December 21, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    37. “I Have Killed Her With This Pistol”. The Atlanta Journal, December 20, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    38. ibid. ↩︎
    39. “Lunacy Writ For Mrs. Wood”. The Atlanta Journal, December 22, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    40. “Lunacy Writ Withdrawn Today”. The Atlanta Journal, December 23, 1902, p. 11. ↩︎
    41. “Mrs. Wood Is Free But Will Not Leave”. The Atlanta Journal, December 26, 1902, p. 3. ↩︎
    42. “Mrs. Wood To Face A Criminal Charge”. Atlanta Semi-Weekly Journal, December 29, 1902, p. 7. ↩︎
    43. “Husband Shot By Jealous Wife; Woman In Jail”. The Atlanta Constitution, July 30, 1903, p. 1. ↩︎
    44. “Jealous Woman Shoots Her Husband Fatally”. The Atlanta Journal, July 29, 1903, p. 1. ↩︎
    45. ibid. ↩︎
    46. “Jealous Woman Who Shot To Kill Is Insane Declares Her Husband”. The Atlanta Journal, December 21, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    47. “Domestic Trouble Of Speers”. The Macon Telegraph (Macon, Georgia), September 14, 1903, p. 1. ↩︎
    48. “Will Not Ask For Alimony”. The Atlanta Constitution, September 13, 1903, p. 4. ↩︎
    49. “Domestic Trouble Of Speers”. The Macon Telegraph (Macon, Georgia), September 14, 1903, p. 1. ↩︎
    50. “Court Records.” The Atlanta Journal, January 12, 1906, p. 15. ↩︎
    51. “John A. Speer Dies Suddenly”. The Atlanta Constitution, February 4, 1905, p. 7. ↩︎
    52. “Mrs. Speer Dies Suddenly.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 14, 1909, p. 7. ↩︎
    53. “Deaths And Funerals”. The Atlanta Journal, January 14, 1909, p. 3. ↩︎
    54. “Captain William J. Speer Finishes Fourty-Sixth Year In Treasury Department”. The Atlanta Journal, November 24, 1926, p. 7. ↩︎
    55. “Captain Speer, Treasurer Of State, Is Dead”. The Atlanta Journal, December 29, 1931, p. 1. ↩︎
    56. “Social Items.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 1, 1904, p. 8. ↩︎
    57. “Building Permits.” The Atlanta Journal, August 9, 1905, p. 11. ↩︎
    58. “Pope Home Sold For $25,000”. The Atlanta Constitution, August 16, 1908, p. 2. ↩︎
    59. ibid. ↩︎
    60. “Personal Mention”. The Atlanta Journal, September 20, 1910, p. 11. ↩︎
    61. “The Real Estate Field”. The Atlanta Journal, June 6, 1911, p. 19. ↩︎
    62. “Building Permits.” The Atlanta Journal, May 6, 1911, p. 13. ↩︎
    63. “The Real Estate Field”. The Atlanta Journal, June 6, 1911, p. 19. ↩︎
    64. “Building Permits”. The Atlanta Journal, August 22, 1911, p. 16. ↩︎
    65. “The Real Estate Field.” The Atlanta Journal, November 5, 1911, p. 8H. ↩︎
    66. “New Homes On The Peachtrees.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 19, 1891, p. 10. ↩︎

  • A.E. Thornton Residence, “Thornhurst” (1890) – Vinings, Georgia

    G.L. Norrman. A.E. Thornton Residence, "Thornhurst" (1890). Vinings, Georgia.
    G.L. Norrman. A.E. Thornton Residence, “Thornhurst” (1890). Vinings, Georgia.1

    The Background

    The following article, published in The Atlanta Journal in March 1890, describes a log cabin built outside of Vinings, Georgia, as a summer residence for A.E. Thornton, and designed by G.L. Norrman.2 3

    Located in Cobb County, roughly 10 miles northwest of central Atlanta near the Chattahoochee River, Vinings was a tiny rural outpost in the 1890s; today it’s a sprawling suburb of leafy neighborhoods and office parks.

    Approximate Location of Thornhurst

    In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many of Atlanta’s prominent citizens maintained “summer homes” in the surrounding countryside, typically only a few miles outside the city for easy access via wagon or train. Vinings, for example, was a stop on the Western and Atlantic Railway.4

    And Albert E. Thornton (1851-1907, pictured here5) was as prominent as they got — one of those deep-pocketed men who seemed to have a hand in just about every conceivable business enterprise.

    By 1890, Thornton served as president of four cotton oil mills,6 president of the Land Title Warranty and Safe Deposit Company in Atlanta,7 8 and vice president of the American Pine Fibre Company in Wilmington, North Carolina.9

    Thornton was also a director of:

    • The Atlanta Street Railway Company10
    • The Augusta, Gibson, and Sandersville Railroad11
    • The Atlanta and West Point Railroad12
    • The Atlanta Electric Illuminating Company13
    • The Atlanta National Bank,14 founded in 1865 by his father-in-law, Alfred Austell15

    Thornton would have been well-acquainted with G.L. Norrman’s work, since Norrman designed the renovation for Atlanta National Bank in 1886,16 as well as residences for one of its chief employees, Paul Romare. Norrman and Thornton were also members of the Capital City Club.17

    It was a slow news day when the Journal published this front-page article, which describes nearly every aspect of “Thornhurst”, Thornton’s 600-acre country estate at Vinings, in exhaustive detail — including the family dogs.

    The author of the article was Walter H. Howard (1870-1902, pictured here18), who at 19 years old was the youngest member of the Journal‘s writing staff.19

    Howard eventually became the city editor of the Journal before moving to New York and working for The New York Journal, notably as a war correspondent in Cuba during the Spanish-American War and later as a foreign correspondent in London.20

    Howard then returned to Atlanta and served as an editor for the short-lived Atlanta Daily News,21 but like so many hot-shot journalists, he burned out fast, dying at the age of 32 after a years-long battle with tuberculosis.22 23

    Following his death, Howard was described as having “the energy of a dynamo,”24 yet it’s hard to find much of it in this plodding, prosaic piece that has all the rhetorical brilliance of a typical college freshman’s essay. My favorite line: “chimneys that one reads about, or, perhaps, dreams about but never sees.”

    Howard’s depiction of Thornhurst as “a log cabin in the mountains” is also amusing: there’s exactly one small mountain at Vinings — Mount Wilkinson — although I would characterize it as a large hill. Today, the area is as hot and polluted as the rest of Atlanta, but you can be sure it was never a place for “cool draughts of pure mountain air.”

    Thoughts on Thornhurst

    The construction dates for Thornhurst are unclear, but the project was first announced in December 1889, and the article here was published in March 1890, so the home was likely completed in 1890.

    Another description of the structure from October 1891 — nearly two years after this article was published — revealed that the interior had yet to be fully furnished, and that Thornton and his wife, Leila, spent “some few days out of every week or so there.”25

    The same report said the Thorntons planned to build an “elegant residence” on the property, at “a point of commanding prominence overlooking the Chattahoochee river and some very rugged country.”26 Those plans apparently never materialized, but presumably Norrman would also have been the designer for the larger home.

    Norman’s specialty was elegant residences, so it must have been a unique challenge for him to design a six-room log cabin that “preserved some characteristics of antebellum days,”27 as the 1891 article put it, using old-fashioned building techniques described as “peculiar to the backwoods.”28

    The latter article provided a little more detail about the home’s construction that wasn’t included here, notably the following:

    “The space in the walls between the logs are daubed with mud, and the entire surface inside and out is shelaced [sic], adding infinitely both to the beauty and the durability of the structure. The roof is of thatch.

    The rustic effect has been carried out in detail on the interiors. Here the mantels are of barked ash poles, notched and rugged. The floors of the cottage are of polished wood.”29

    Thornhurst’s Fate

    From the 1890s to the 1900s, local social columns regularly reported on the Thorntons’ excursions to Thornhurst, where they often hosted large parties and social gatherings in the summer months, including at least one barbecue in 1906 for the employees of the Atlanta National Bank.30

    As the Journal noted in 1900:

    “Among the country places of Atlanta persons, “Thornhurst,” owned by Mr. and Mrs. Albert E. Thornton, arouses pleasant memories in the minds of a number of Atlantians who have visited this home during the summer.”31

    The last mention of Thornhurst in an Atlanta newspaper appeared in January 1908,32 nearly a year after A.E. Thornton’s death.33 Leila Thornton inherited the entirety of her husband’s estate, including Thornhurst and other real estate holdings, which the Journal said made her “perhaps the wealthiest woman in the state.”34

    The final published reference I can find to Thornhurst is in the Summer Social Register of 1911,35 and beyond that, the date of the cabin’s demise is unclear.

    When Leila Thornton died in 1931, she was a resident of the Biltmore Hotel in Atlanta,36 and it appears the family’s estate in Vinings had already long been sold off, with the cabin presumably demolished.

    Coincidentally, a Log Cabin Drive exists in Vinings today, named after the Log Cabin Community Church, which was founded in 1912 and housed in a log cabin. Based on a photograph of the original church, it wasn’t the same as Thornhurst.

    I guess Vinings had more than one log cabin.


    A Place Of Beauty.

    An Atlanta Gentleman’s Country Home
    On The Banks Of The Chattahoochee.

    Mr. A.E. Thornton’s Country Residence Near Vining’s Station–An Elegant Log House Built on the Top of a Hill Overlooking the River.

    Written for The Journal.

    There is in course of construction on the banks of the Chattahoochee river, one mile from Vinings station, an ideal country home of a city gentleman.

    The place is owned by Mr. A.E. Thornton, president of the Atlanta Cotton Seed Oil company. It consists of six hundred acres of well wooded land among the small mountains to the right of the little station; at a place where the river bends well towards the south in its course.

    The house is on the summit of a tall hill near the river side. At the bottom of the hill a clear spring branch threads its way through a mass of undergrowth and finally mingles its waters with those of the Chattahoochee.

    The house is nothing more than a log cabin, but it is the most elegant one in the state. It is a story and a half high and contains six rooms, four down stairs and two above.

    Every piece of wood that is being used in the construction of this picturesque building is fine, and was cut and prepared for use on the place. For this purpose a small steam saw mill was put up at the foot of the hill by the side of the branch, and all of the logs and planks used on the place are sawed in it.

    The House Itself.

    The log house is built upon a stone foundation. The first story is built of evenly selected logs, lain one upon the other, and the small crevices between them neatly filled with hardened cement. The upper half story is covered on the outside with fancy shingles.

    The bark is scraped off of all the logs, and they are neatly scraped, but unpainted.

    And then the chimneys. They are chimneys that one reads about, or, perhaps, dreams about but never sees. There are two of them, one at each end of the house. They are regular old fashioned log chimneys with the cracks stopped up with cement. They are what are called double chimneys, furnishing a fireplace for each of the four down stairs rooms.

    These chimneys are four feet deep and sixteen feet wide at the base, and taper gently to the top, where they are four by nine feet. The logs of which they are built decrease in size toward the top so that the appearance of the chimneys is entirely symmetrical.

    The Broad Porches.

    The house has two very broad porches. The front porch faces the west, giving a magnificent view of the glorious sunsets to be seen in these mountains. The posts supporting the roof of this porch are nicely-selected pine saplings, sawn so that the knotty branches form artistic rustic brackets.

    The back porch is a broad, open plaza, fourteen by forty-two feet, without any roof. It is inclosed by rustic banisters and railings of knotty pine branches.

    From this porch, through a vista dimmed by intervening trees, is the view of the river, about a hundred yards off. Mr. Thornton’s place has about one mile of river front, and the grounds from the house to the river will be cleared out nicely so that the view will be unobstructed.

    Inside The House.

    The inside of the house is finished with an exactness and nicety that is charming to observe.

    The walls and ceilings of the rooms and hallway are cleanly and smoothly scraped and painted white.

    The very broad inviting hallway, leading through the house from one porch to another, gives passage to cool draughts of pure mountain air.

    Everything inside the rooms is arranged with the same artistic roughness as on the outside. The mantles are of pine and adorned with rough, knotty brackets. The large, old-fashioned hand-irons in the fireplace, across which are laid large logs of hickory and oak wood complete a picture of one of those comfortable rooms.

    The stairway leading to the second floor is constructed in keeping with the rest of the house. The post at the foot and banisters are of the same knot covered pine branches, presenting a very pretty rustic effect.

    The interior of the two rooms upstairs is finished with the same comfort and neatness as those below. Amply large closets are set on either side of these rooms and pretty little dormer windows looking out over the mountains on one side, and the river on the other.

    The Water Works.

    This log house of Mr. Thornton’s will have a complete system of water works in it.

    And the water will be the purest spring water, cool and refreshing.

    On the top of one of the mountains is the large, clear spring from which the water will flow. At this spring a tank has been placed, the bottom of which is sixteen feet above the top of the house. From this tank pipes will convey the water to the house, about a quarter of a mile distant.

    The idea of having waterworks in a log cabin in the mountains is quite something new.

    The new waterworks plant of the city of Atlanta will be on the Chattahoochee river just one mile and a half above Mr. Thornton’s place.

    The Out Houses.

    Just outside the house, near the open plaza, is a neat little kitchen and a servant’s house. The yard is surrounded by a tall picket fence, and will be laid off and planted in nothing but grasses and natural wild flowers.

    The place has over a hundred good chickens on it and a separate inclosure [sic] has been built for them.

    Then the dogs.

    Mr. Thornton has a pack of five little beagle hounds, the smallest, prettiest little fellows imaginable. There are but very few of these dogs around Atlanta, and to follow them in a chase after a rabbit is an interesting experience. The little fellows never get tired. They will run a rabbit all day and never abandon the chase until it is killed or captured.

    Besides these there are two fine fox hounds, and several other dogs, setters and pointers, will be taken to the place. A kennel has been built for the dogs as large as a stable, and an inclosure built around it.

    The Stable And Orchard.

    On the northern slope of the mountain, only a short distance from the house, is the stable.

    In this Mr. Thornton will keep his cows and two carriage horses, his carriage, a wagon, and other farm implements. This barn and stable is perfectly arranged.

    Below the stable is a newly planted orchard of fine peach, apple and pear trees, grapes and scuppernongs. The orchard is regularly and beautifully laid off and will be sown in clover. It contains about six acres of well-cleared land.

    The place is peculiarly picturesque and beautiful. The buildings are all constructed upon a similar style of architecture, and the uniformity with which the work, the designs, and the arrangements of the buildings have been perfected and carried out is an evidence of Mr. Thornton’s excellent taste and good judgment.

    Mr. George A. Yarbrough is the polite and efficient contractor who has so ably carried out this beautiful work for Mr. Thornton.

    During the approaching summer Mr. and Mrs. Thornton will entertain some of their friends at their country seat in true English style.

    Walter H. Howard.37

    References

    1. Illustration credit: “Summer Homes!” The Atlanta Journal, October 17, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    2. “Some Striking Things.” The Atlanta Constitution, December 1, 1889, p. 14. ↩︎
    3. “Georgia And Alabama.” Columbus Enquirer-Sun (Columbus, Georgia), December 8, 1889, p. 3. ↩︎
    4. “Summer Homes!” The Atlanta Journal, October 17, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    5. Illustration credit: “Thornton Goes To Final Rest”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 3, 1907, p. 1. ↩︎
    6. “A.E. Thornton, Esq.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 10, 1887, p. 16. ↩︎
    7. “An Important Enterprise.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 29, 1887, p. 1. ↩︎
    8. “From Our Notebook.” The Atlanta Constitution, May 3, 1889, p. 5. ↩︎
    9. “American Pine Fibre Company” (advertisement), The Atlanta Constitution, April 16, 1890, p. 4. ↩︎
    10. “It Changes Hands.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 9, 1889, p. 1. ↩︎
    11. “The Augusta, Gibson and Sandersville.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 13, 1890, p. 3. ↩︎
    12. “Officers Elected.” The Atlanta Journal, August 8, 1890, p. 2. ↩︎
    13. “Light and Power.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 3, 1890, p. 6. ↩︎
    14. “Report Of The Condition Of The Atlanta National Bank”. The Atlanta Journal, March 10, 1890, p. 1. ↩︎
    15. “Col. Thornton’s Funeral Today”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 4, 1907, p. 4. ↩︎
    16. “The City.” The Atlanta Journal, May 25, 1886, p. 4. ↩︎
    17. “The New Club.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 17, 1883, p. 8. ↩︎
    18. “Story Of The Journal.” The Atlanta Journal, May 1, 1889, p. 8. ↩︎
    19. ibid. ↩︎
    20. Ormond, Sidney. “Walter Howard Is Dead; The Story Of His Life”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 12, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    21. ibid. ↩︎
    22. “Walter Howard Dies In Asheville”. The Atlanta Journal, June 11, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    23. “Walter Howard To Rest In Oakland”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 12, 1902, p. 5. ↩︎
    24. Ormond, Sidney. “Walter Howard Is Dead; The Story Of His Life”. The Atlanta Constitution, June 12, 1902, p. 1. ↩︎
    25. “Summer Homes!” The Atlanta Journal, October 17, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    26. ibid. ↩︎
    27. ibid. ↩︎
    28. ibid. ↩︎
    29. ibid. ↩︎
    30. ‘Barbecue at “Thornhurst”‘. The Atlanta Journal, April 25, 1906, p. 10. ↩︎
    31. “Homes Where Atlantians Spend The Summer Months”. The Atlanta Journal, June 2, 1900, p. 6. ↩︎
    32. “Mr. J.G. Oglesby Jr., To Give Barbecue”. The Atlanta Journal, January 21, 1908, p. 8. ↩︎
    33. “Thornton Goes To Final Rest”. The Atlanta Constitution, April 3, 1907, p. 1. ↩︎
    34. “Thornton Estate Is Left To Widow”. The Atlanta Journal, April 9, 1907, p. 1. ↩︎
    35. Social Register Summer 1911 ↩︎
    36. “Mrs. Thornton’s Funeral Services Set For Saturday”. The Atlanta Journal, May 29, 1931, p. 23. ↩︎
    37. Howard, Walter H. “A Place Of Beauty.” The Atlanta Journal, March 15, 1890, p. 1. ↩︎

  • Kiser Law Building (1891-1936) – Atlanta

    Bruce & Morgan. Kiser Law Building (1891-1936). Atlanta.
    Bruce & Morgan. Kiser Law Building (1891-1936). Atlanta.1

    The Background

    The following article, published in The Atlanta Constitution in 1890, includes an illustration and a brief description of the Kiser Law Building, completed in 1891 and designed by Bruce & Morgan.

    Location of Kiser Law Building

    Located at the northwest corner of Hunter and Pryor Streets (later Martin Luther King, Jr. Drive SE and Pryor Street SE) in Atlanta, the five-story office building was owned by M.C. Kiser (1830-18932), a local real estate developer.

    For several years, members of the Atlanta Bar Association had reportedly approached Kiser (pictured here3) with requests for him to build a structure designed exclusively for law offices.4 5

    When Kiser finally agreed to the project, the association formed a building committee that considered two designs for the structure: one by A.Mc.C. Nixon, and the winning plan by Bruce & Morgan.6 7

    Bruce’s Approach

    Although T.H. Morgan increasingly became the primary designer for Bruce & Morgan through the 1890s, A.C. Bruce still handled the majority of the firm’s output in the early part of the decade, and the Kiser Law Building appears to have been his design.

    Bruce was a former cabinet maker and carpenter who lacked formal architectural training, and by 1890, the limits of his skill set were becoming readily apparent.

    Many of Bruce’s designs from the early 1890s appear heavy-handed and anachronistic: you can see he was attempting to adapt to modern tastes, but his design sensibility was still fundamentally stuck in the 1870s — the Kiser Law Building was a prime example.

    Looking at the illustration above, the building resembles a stack of drawers haphazardly piled on top of each other, and oversized windows of varying shapes and sizes junk up both facades.

    That additive approach to design was typical of architects with a background in carpentry, who often designed buildings as if they were giant pieces of furniture, joining disparate elements and tacking on unnecessary embellishments instead of envisioning their compositions as solid masses to be sculpted into form.

    The building’s overall style is equally baffling: Bruce was presumably aiming for the Romanesque, but for all the eclectic adornments, including terra cotta trim,8 9a decorative slate roof with iron crestings, ornamental iron balconies, and marble columns,10 he didn’t quite achieve a cohesive style. The pyramidal peaks and elaborate gables were also becoming rapidly outdated by 1891.

    Kiser Law Building circa 1895
    Kiser Law Building circa 189511

    Design and Construction

    As construction began, it was reported that the Kiser Law Building would be constructed of either Berea sandstone or marble.12 It’s Atlanta, so it appears they opted for the cheaper sandstone for most of the structure and incorporated marble trim around the entrance.13

    Set over a full basement, the building’s five floors included a 16-foot-wide central hall, served by one elevator, four stairwells, and two fire escapes. A light court was also designed to extend from the top to the bottom floor, so that each of the building’s 84 offices would be lighted and ventilated from the outside.14

    The building was illuminated with electric lighting and included “water closets of the latest patterns…located in the rear [heh] of every floor.15

    While it was originally reported that the building would be heated by steam,16 17 Kiser ultimately chose the Bolton Hot Water System, which was marketed as a “purely scientific, healthful way of heating.”18

    I don’t really care enough about such things to learn more; however, the man who supervised the heating system’s installation told the Constitution: “…the larger buildings in the north have been heated by hot water apparatuses for the last ten or twelve years, yet it is practically new for the south…”19

    No surprise, really: Atlanta’s self-conscious developers are always late to the game, simply replicating what was done a decade ago in the better cities of the North.

    The floors of the Kiser Law Building were planned as follows:

    • The ground floor included spaces for four stores — the storefront at the corner of Hunter and Pryor was designated for a bank,20 and another space facing Pryor Street was planned as a restaurant.21 The entrance hallway featured marble wainscoting and tile22 and led to “four broad stairways” and “an elevator of the most approved pattern.”23
    • The second, third, and fourth floors were identical in design, and each contained 28 office suites — 14 on each side of the central hall. The offices were finished in hardwoods and Georgia pine, with fireproof vaults and closets.24 25
    • The fifth floor was intended to house two large halls “suited to the use of secret societies, public meetings and other similar purposes,”26 as well as a kitchen, storerooms, reception room, and a club room or library.27

    Construction on the building began on April 8, 1890,28 with J.H. Matthews,29 “a wide-awake contractor”,30 supervising the project. The initial estimated cost of the building was $90,000, with a projected completion date of April 1, 1891.31 The cost rose to $100,000 by 1891,32 and the building was completed in August 1891.33 34

    Local interest in the project was high, and while construction was still underway in November 1890, Kiser had reportedly received applications from 100 lawyers seeking office space.35

    Firms began announcing their intention to move to the building in early 1891,36 and in June 1891, George W. Adair, who handled leasing for the property, reported: “The Kiser law building is nearly ready for occupancy, which is good news to those who have already selected their rooms, and others that are waiting for its completion.”37

    Their lease agreements should have included the following caveat: the only thing slimier than a lawyer is an Atlanta developer.

    The Terminal Debacle

    In July 1891, Kiser leased nearly the entire law building — including the top four floors, the corner store on the ground floor, and the full basement38 39to a single firm: the Richmond Terminal Company, which had abruptly decided to relocate its headquarters from Washington, D.C. to Atlanta.40

    The company stated its intention to use the Kiser Building as temporary office space until it could build its own facility in the city,41 signing a two-year lease for the then-unheard-of sum (in Atlanta anyway) of $14,500 a year.42 43

    Commonly referred to as the “Terminal”, the company had previously purchased the Central Railroad and Banking Company, Georgia’s oldest railroad,44 based in Savannah. The Terminal’s new Atlanta headquarters consolidated the employees from both Savannah and Washington in a single location.

    However, the Kiser Building was much too small to house the Terminal’s 250 to 300 workers,45 46 and one executive stated, “Unfortunately that building is not large enough to fully accommodate all the offices, but we will try to make do.” Kiser said of the negotiation: “…the trouble was they wanted more room, but finally concluded they could get along by adding the corner room and the basement.”47

    The Terminal’s hasty relocation to Atlanta was more than a little suspicious, and there were allegations that it wasn’t “bona fide”, which the company denied.48 Atlanta’s newspapers, of course, hailed the move, with the always-bloviating Constitution prognosticating:

    “A grand new depot and office building. That is the inevitable result.

    The bringing of these offices to Atlanta is a bigger thing than might appear at first glance. This naturally makes Atlanta the center of the railroad situation of the south, and, as Atlanta is now the insurance center, it becomes beyond question the financial center of the south.”49

    The lawyers who already selected offices in the Kiser Building just had to suck it, I guess. The Odd Fellows probably weren’t too thrilled either: the Constitution reported in July 1891 that “about ten days ago they selected the fifth floor of the Kiser building and immediately rented it as an Odd Fellows’ hall. Then the Terminal people came along and wished the place.”50

    Anyone who knows how shit goes down in Atlanta could guess what happened next: Just six months after the Terminal employees began working in the Kiser building, the Central Railroad was forced into receivership by a local judge.51 52

    Rumors of the Terminal’s financial difficulties and potential bankruptcy had swirled around Atlanta for months, spurred by the resignations of top executives and directors who had reportedly been battling for control of the company.53 54

    There was also the time in January 1892, when the company apparently lacked the funds to pay its employees, delaying their paychecks for more than a week,55 56 57 58 a situation charitably described as “embarrassing.”59

    The final blow was delivered in a lawsuit filed by a stockholder against the company, alleging that, among other things, the Terminal’s owners were conspiring to transfer $500,000,000 in debt onto the Central Railroad, “which it [could] never pay,”60 61 presumably with the intent to bankrupt it. Sounds like business as usual for an American enterprise.

    Under the rules of the receivership, the Central Railroad’s 74 employees62 returned to Savannah,63 64 and while it initially appeared that the remaining Terminal employees would stay in Atlanta, they were ordered back to Washington in June 1892, leaving the Kiser Building nearly vacant.65 66The company hired George W. Adair to sublet the building,67 which was filled with lawyers as originally planned.68

    Kiser Law Building circa 1936
    Kiser Law Building circa 1936

    The Inevitable Demise

    Office structures tend to fall out of fashion quickly, and in 1930, the Journal said of the Kiser Law Building: “…the lawyers, loan brokers, and trade representatives [have] shifted to more modernly equipped buildings…”, noting that, “storms of nearly half a century have raised havoc with the structure and its artistic domes, its oriel windows, and its ornamental trimmings.”69

    By 1936, the Kiser Law Building was reportedly “almost empty except for a store or two on the sidewalk.”70 No one seemed too upset when the structure was demolished in November and December 1936 for — take a wild guess — a parking lot.71 72 73


    The Article

    Bruce & Morgan. Kiser Law Building (1891-1936). Atlanta.
    Bruce & Morgan. Kiser Law Building (1891-1936). Atlanta.

    Major M.C. Kiser’s “Law Building” will be one of the handsomest buildings in the south, and when finished will be one of Atlanta’s greatest attractions.

    The Constitution gives here an excellent cut of the building, made from the drawings of Bruce & Morgan, the architects. The uses to which the building are to be put have been fully explained in these columns.

    The building will be erected at the corner of Pryor and Hunter streets, fronting on Pryor, and will be five stories in height. It will be devoted to offices for lawyers, with clubrooms for a Lawyers’ club. It will be just as complete as possible, an ideal building in every respect.74

    References

    1. Illustration credit: Atlanta in 1890: “The Gate City”. Atlanta: The Atlanta Historical Society, Inc. (1986), p. 62. ↩︎
    2. “M.C. Kiser Dead”. The Atlanta Constitution, December 1, 1893, p. 5. ↩︎
    3. Illustration credit: “The Programme For Today Is Here.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 14, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    4. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    5. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    6. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    7. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    8. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    9. “History In Clay.” The Atlanta Constitution, May 15, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    10. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    11. Photo credit: Art Work of Atlanta: Published in Twelve Parts ↩︎
    12. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    13. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    14. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    15. ibid. ↩︎
    16. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    17. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    18. “Kiser Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, September 6, 1891, p. 3. ↩︎
    19. ibid. ↩︎
    20. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    21. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Journal, November 29, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    22. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    23. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    24. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    25. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    26. ibid. ↩︎
    27. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 26, 1890, p. 19. ↩︎
    28. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    29. “Atlanta Building Up.” The Atlanta Constitution, October 3, 1890, p. 3. ↩︎
    30. “A Hoisting Elevator.” The Atlanta Journal, November 11, 1890, p. 1. ↩︎
    31. “Kiser’s Law Building.” The Atlanta Constitution, April 8, 1890, p. 7. ↩︎
    32. “Etched and Sketched.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 30, 1891, p. 4. ↩︎
    33. “Railroad Notes.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 16, 1891, p. 19. ↩︎
    34. “They Are Here.” The Atlanta Constitution, August 24, 1891, p. 4. ↩︎
    35. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Journal, November 29, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    36. “Land Titles.” The Atlanta Journal, April 30, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    37. “FOR RENT — Houses, Cottages, Etc.” The Atlanta Constitution, June 28, 1891, p. 10. ↩︎
    38. “The Kiser Building”. The Atlanta Constitution, July 23, 1891, p. 4. ↩︎
    39. “Terminal Offices In The Kiser Block.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 24, 1891, p. 2. ↩︎
    40. “The General Offices”. The Atlanta Constitution, July 22, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    41. ibid. ↩︎
    42. “Terminal Offices In The Kiser Block.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 24, 1891, p. 2. ↩︎
    43. “Then And Now.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 28, 1891, p. 5. ↩︎
    44. “The Central’s Fate.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 5, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    45. “To Move Their Offices.” The Atlanta Journal, June 17, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    46. “Fleming Out.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 25, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    47. “Terminal Offices In The Kiser Block.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 24, 1891, p. 2. ↩︎
    48. ibid. ↩︎
    49. ibid. ↩︎
    50. “Might Have Interrupted Their Plans.” The Atlanta Constitution, July 26, 1891, p. 15. ↩︎
    51. “A Receiver!” The Atlanta Journal, March 4, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    52. “The Central’s Fate.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 5, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    53. “Changes In The Terminal.” The Macon Telegraph (Macon, Georgia), January 5, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    54. “The Complete Story”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 6, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    55. “Railroad News.” The Atlanta Constitution, January 1, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    56. “Pay Day Postponed.” The Atlanta Journal, January 1, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    57. “They Have Resigned”. The Atlanta Journal, January 5, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    58. “Salaries Paid.” The Macon Telegraph (Macon, Georgia), January 7, 1892, p. 2. ↩︎
    59. “Atlanta’s Rumors.” The Morning News (Savannah, Georgia), January 7, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    60. “A Receiver!” The Atlanta Journal, March 4, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    61. “The Central’s Fate.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 5, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    62. “Fleming Out.” The Atlanta Constitution, June 25, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    63. “Paints A Rosy Picture.” The Atlanta Journal, March 29, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    64. “The Central’s Officials”. The Atlanta Journal, March 30, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    65. “To Move Their Offices”. The Atlanta Journal, June 17, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    66. “Are Anxious To Leave.” The Atlanta Journal, June 18, 1892, p. 3. ↩︎
    67. “Mr. W.G. Oakman”. The Atlanta Journal, June 22, 1892, p. 1. ↩︎
    68. “Kiser Building, Familiar Landmark Here For Almost 50 Years, Will Be Demolished”. The Atlanta Journal, November 15, 1936, p. 8-D. ↩︎
    69. Moody, George O. “‘Home’ In Kiser Building Lost By Pigeons”. The Atlanta Journal, July 6, 1930, p. 2. ↩︎
    70. “Old Landmark Of City Will Be Demolished”. The Atlanta Constitution, November 15, 1936, p. 6C. ↩︎
    71. ibid. ↩︎
    72. “Kiser Building, Familiar Landmark Here For Almost 50 Years, Will Be Demolished”. The Atlanta Journal, November 15, 1936, p. 8-D. ↩︎
    73. “Adair Announces Important Leases”. The Atlanta Journal, December 6, 1936, p. 6-D. ↩︎
    74. The Atlanta Constitution, March 30, 1890, p. 8. ↩︎

  • Cherokee County Courthouse – Murphy, North Carolina (1892-1895)

    Bruce & Morgan. Cherokee County Courthouse (1892-1895). Murphy, North Carolina.
    Bruce & Morgan. Cherokee County Courthouse (1892-1895). Murphy, North Carolina.

    The Background

    The following article, published in The State Chronicle in March 1890, includes an illustration and a description of the Cherokee County Courthouse in Murphy, North Carolina, designed by Bruce & Morgan.

    A vernacular interpretation of the Romanesque Revival style, the building depicted in the illustration appears to be a competent effort by A.C. Bruce, and an updated version of his plan for the Newton County Courthouse in Covington, Georgia, completed in 1884.

    The only questionable elements in the otherwise cohesive composition are the odd pediment and oversized half-round window above the entrance portico. This wasn’t an exceptional design, by any means, but generally well-proportioned and tastefully executed.

    Location of Cherokee County Courthouse

    The article states that the county’s leaders were unsure whether the courthouse should be built of brick with marble trimmings or “an entire marble face,” a preposterous question for a rural jurisdiction in the Deep South.

    Marble was so cost-prohibitive in the late 19th century that even Atlantans couldn’t afford it as a primary building material, much less the inhabitants of a dirt-poor county in the hills of Carolina.

    Unsurprisingly, the finished courthouse was primarily built with pressed brick, while the foundation and steps were composed of marble.1 The initial cost of the project was reported as $21,5002 by one source and $22,5753 by another, but other reports estimated it at $40,000.4 5 6

    It’s difficult to find a definitive date for the building’s completion, but the cornerstone was laid in July 1891,7 and most sources state it was finished in 1892, which would be a reasonable timeframe.

    Despite this article’s claim that the courthouse would “stand the storm of ages”, the building was destroyed by fire on December 13, 1895,8 less than four years after its completion, although the outer walls were left intact.9

    In early 1896, Bruce & Morgan were hired as architects for the building’s replacement,10 and it appears they essentially replicated the previous design.

    The rebuilt courthouse was also destroyed by fire on January 16, 1926,11 12and replaced with an entirely new structure.13 14

    So much for it being “a monument for centuries to come.”


    Murphy’s New Court House.

    The State Chronicle is glad to be able to present to its readers to day a picture of the new Court House which the Commissioners and Magistrates of Cherokee county have decided to erect at Murphy. It will be a handsome building and an ornament to the town and county, as well as its best advertisement. It is to have a face and trimmings of marble quarried from the Cherokee county quarries. Marble of almost every shade of color is found in Cherokee, and the Western North Carolina Railroad runs in such close proximity to the marble as to enable parties to load it directly from the quarries into the cars. A marble Court House will advertise this marble better than an hundred agents and an hundred newspapers. The Commissioners and Magistrates have not exactly determined whether it shall have an entire marble face, and have advertised for bids with the marble face and only with marble trimming. But they have decided to build it, and it is a decision in which the entire State is interested. It shows that we are going forward. As the Murphy Bulletin well and truly put it: “The Court House will stand the storm of ages and retain its original beauty and magnificence.” The Commissioners and Magistrates have acted wisely, and the Chronicle rejoices that a spirit of faith in the glorious future of their county has been present with them. This marble Court House will be a monument for centuries to come of the wisdom of the men now living in Cherokee.15

    References

    1. “State News.” The Weekly Review (Reidsville, North Carolina). January 21, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    2. “Around Town.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 12, 1891, p. 4. ↩︎
    3. “State News.” The Weekly Review (Reidsville, North Carolina). January 21, 1891, p. 7. ↩︎
    4. “Building Notes.” The Atlanta Constitution, February 21, 1890, p. 5. ↩︎
    5. “Murphy’s Marble Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina). December 14, 1895, p. 1. ↩︎
    6. “To Rebuild the Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 7, 1896, p. 1. ↩︎
    7. “Murphy’s Barbecue.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), July 18, 1891, p. 1. ↩︎
    8. “Murphy’s Marble Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina). December 14, 1895, p. 1. ↩︎
    9. “Cherokee County Court House Swept By Disastrous Fire for Second Time In History, Damage Believed $100,000.” The Sunday Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 17, 1926, p. 20. ↩︎
    10. “To Rebuild the Court House.” Asheville Daily Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 7, 1896, p. 1. ↩︎
    11. “Cherokee Courthouse Is Destroyed By Fire”. The Charlotte News (Charlotte, North Carolina), January 16, 1926, p. 1. ↩︎
    12. “Cherokee County Court House Swept By Disastrous Fire for Second Time In History, Damage Believed $100,000.” The Sunday Citizen (Asheville, North Carolina), January 17, 1926, p. 20. ↩︎
    13. “Start Plans For Cherokee Courthouse”. The Asheville Times (Asheville, North Carolina), January 22, 1926, p. 18. ↩︎
    14. “New Courthouse Will Be Built In Cherokee County”. Salisbury Evening Post (Salisbury, North Carolina), January 28, 1926, p. 6. ↩︎
    15. The State Chronicle (Raleigh, North Carolina), March 11, 1890, p. 3. ↩︎

  • Public Comfort Building, Oakland Cemetery (1899) – Atlanta

    C. Walter Smith. Public Comfort Building at Oakland Cemetery (1899). Atlanta.
    C. Walter Smith. Public Comfort Building at Oakland Cemetery (1899). Atlanta.

    The Public Comfort Building in Oakland Cemetery is the only surviving work in Atlanta known to have been designed by C. Walter Smith (1865-1910), an architect who worked for at least seven years as a draughtsman and assistant for G.L. Norrman before embarking on a fairly unremarkable solo career.

    Built on a small hill in the western portion of the 48-acre cemetery, this 2-story structure includes a full basement and totals 2,800 square feet.1 The exterior is faced in stucco-covered brick2 and rusticated granite trim, and marble flooring3 is used on the front porch and in the basement.

    Modeled after “the old Norman and English castellated churches,”4 the building’s design can be broadly defined as Romanesque, and its focal point is a 50-foot-high crenelated bell tower,5 heavily inspired by similar designs from G.L. Norrman.

    Today, Oakland Cemetery refers to the entire structure as the “Bell Tower”.

    C. Walter Smith. Public Comfort Building at Oakland Cemetery (1899). Atlanta.
    C. Walter Smith. Public Comfort Building at Oakland Cemetery (1899). Atlanta.6

    An illustration from 1899 (pictured above) reveals the building’s original design: a one-story porch topped by battlements originally flanked the south facade, and a porte-cochère to accommodate wagons was attached to the east side.

    Curiously, the final design was reversed, with the porte-cochère moved to the west side of the structure, likely one of “a few slight changes” announced before construction began.7

    Roman arches on the porch and bell tower, and Gothic-style arched windows on the second floor completed the appearance of a small, storybook castle—again, Smith borrowed significantly from Norrman for the aesthetic.

    South facade of the Public Comfort Building
    South facade of the Public Comfort Building

    In its original conception, the building was one of Smith’s better designs. Despite years of training under “the South’s most prominent architect”8—his words—Smith’s skill never came close to Norman’s high level of artistry, although his work here was at least intriguing.

    Unfortunately, the initial vision was compromised by the later addition of second-floor porches over the front porch and porte-cochère, topped with flat roofs and punctuated by incongruent half-round openings.

    I suspect the porches were added circa 1908, when the cemetery spent $5,000 on a range of improvements9 following its first annual report to the city, which requested $1,000 for “needed changes and repairs in the main building.”10

    The effect of the alterations is detrimental: the upper porches add unnecessary visual mass to the structure and pull focus away from the bell tower, robbing the entire composition of the uplifting, monumental effect Smith originally intended.

    West elevation of the Public Comfort Building
    West elevation of the Public Comfort Building

    “Public comfort” was a polite 19th-century euphemism for restrooms, which were originally housed on the ground floor of the structure.

    When the building was completed in October 1899, The Atlanta Journal delicately noted: “Here one now finds a convenience and comfort that was lacking for many years.”11 I guess early visitors just had to hold it—or maybe piss on a grave.

    There were initially six rooms in the building, including a ladies’ parlor and an “apartment for gentlemen.” All six rooms had tiled mantels,12 which was apparently noteworthy. Two of the mantels remain intact.

    The structure also included an office for the cemetery’s sexton,13 and Oakland Cemetery’s website claims the building contained a chapel, with the second floor used as the sexton’s residence. So many uses for such a small structure.

    Second-floor windows on the Public Comfort Building
    Second-floor windows on the Public Comfort Building

    Despite its fanciful design, the building was, at heart, purely utilitarian, “suitable for the purposes for which it is intended,”14 as the Journal put it.

    People need to pee, of course, but the building’s other raison d’être was concealed in the basement.15 The structure was built on the site of a converted 2-story farmhouse16 known as the “dead house”17 —you can see where this is going.

    As the Journal explained:

    “There is a vault with eight catacombs and sixteen racks. This is as strong and substantial as could be made. For the retention of bodies for any length of time the catacombs will answer every purpose, as they are built to be air-tight for years to come. The racks, as a matter of course, are intended as a temporary place of keeping and are conveniently arranged. When the iron gate to the vault is locked entrance is practically impossible.”18

    Front porch of the Public Comfort Building
    Front porch of the Public Comfort Building

    Since Oakland is a public cemetery operated by the city of Atlanta, the building was funded through a city council appropriation.19 The Atlanta Building Company secured the contract with the lowest bid, and the project’s total cost was $4,600,20 with $650 spent on the stone.21

    Construction on the building was initially slated to begin on April 27, 1899,22 but was apparently delayed until June and completed in four months.23

    Although early plans called for the construction of one or two additional public comfort buildings in the cemetery,24 those never materialized, and this structure remained the only significant public building at the site, altered many times over by piecemeal repairs and additions.

    When the Historic Oakland Foundation was formed in 1976 to preserve and maintain the cemetery’s historic integrity, the building became office space for the organization, with the ground floor converted into a small visitors center,25 a function that it served for decades.

    East elevation of the Public Comfort Building
    East elevation of the Public Comfort Building

    In 2022, as Oakland Cemetery prepared to build a much larger visitors’ center outside its main entrance, the former Public Comfort Building received a gut renovation designed by Smith Dalia Architects, Atlanta’s finest firm for the adaptive reuse of historic structures.

    The project included tearing out the hodgepodge of rooms on each floor for larger, open spaces, removing god-awful windows added to the second-floor porches, and making necessary accessibility alterations, which altered a portion of the front porch.26 27

    The building reopened later that year28 as an event space: the fallback choice when owners don’t know what to do with a historic structure.

    Following its renovation, the building now appears a little too clean and gleaming—I actually preferred it when it was worn and shabby—but it still has an undeniable anachronistic charm that’s uncommon in Atlanta.

    And as one of just six known extant works by Walter Smith, it’s also a matter of curiosity, if nothing else.

    Bell tower on the Public Comfort Building
    Bell tower on the Public Comfort Building

    References

    1. Perspectives in Architecture: A new era for Oakland’s historic bell tower – Rough Draft Atlanta ↩︎
    2. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    3. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    4. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    5. ibid. ↩︎
    6. Illustration credit: ibid. ↩︎
    7. “Notice to Contractors.” The Atlanta Journal, April 4, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    8. “A Card.” The Atlanta Constitution, March 1, 1893, p. 10. ↩︎
    9. “Work Of Joyner For Last Two Years Reviewed”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 5, 1909, p. 4. ↩︎
    10. “Cemetery Commission Makes First Report”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 5, 1908, p. 8. ↩︎
    11. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    12. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    13. ibid. ↩︎
    14. ibid. ↩︎
    15. ibid. ↩︎
    16. Sections and Landmarks – Oakland Cemetery ↩︎
    17. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    18. ibid. ↩︎
    19. ibid. ↩︎
    20. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    21. “Mosley & Co. Get $390”. The Atlanta Journal, May 25, 1900, p. 5. ↩︎
    22. “New Building To Be Erected At Oakland Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, April 14, 1899, p. 7. ↩︎
    23. “Big Improvement At The Cemetery”. The Atlanta Journal, October 13, 1899, p. 9. ↩︎
    24. “Cemetery Commission Makes First Report”. The Atlanta Constitution, January 5, 1908, p. 8. ↩︎
    25. Perspectives in Architecture: A new era for Oakland’s historic bell tower – Rough Draft Atlanta ↩︎
    26. ibid. ↩︎
    27. Historic Oakland Cemetery Bell Tower – The Georgia Trust ↩︎
    28. Ribbon cutting to be held for Oakland Cemetery’s refurbished Bell Tower – Rough Draft Atlanta ↩︎