Category: Architecture of the Gilded Age

  • United States Post Office (1913) – New York

    McKim, Mead & White. United States Post Office (1913). New York.
    William M. Kendall of McKim, Mead & White. United States Post Office (1913). New York.

    The imposing United States Post Office in New York City was a very late work of McKim, Mead & White—so late that two of the firm’s namesake founders, Charles McKim and Stanford White, had been dead for several years when it was completed in 1913.

    By that point, McKim, Mead & White was a well-oiled machine that ran on an army of anonymous architects, but the project is now primarily credited to William M. Kendall.

    The gleaming white five-story structure occupies two blocks of prime real estate in Midtown Manhattan and was built to complement its original neighbor, Pennsylvania Station,1 also designed by McKim, Mead & White, and demolished in 1963.

    Location of the United States Post Office

    The firm’s output in later years was often unremarkable and derivative, but there’s something special about this building, which is chock-full of exquisite materials and elegant details that reveal thoughtful attention to design despite the project’s massive scale.

    United States Post Office, New York, circa 1913
    United States Post Office, New York, circa 1913

    Built for a hefty $6 million, the original structure included over 400,000 square feet of floor space and was composed of 165,000 cubic feet of Massachusetts granite, 18,000 tons of steel, 7 million bricks, and 200,000 square feet of glass.2

    Most of that glass was used in the giant skylight over the building’s central workroom, which was reportedly the largest room in the United States when the facility opened.3

    Looking at the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Looking at the facade of the United States Post Office, New York

    The building’s public-facing interior spaces were elaborately decorated with Tennessee marble on the floors and walls, topped by ornamental plaster ceilings featuring the seals of 10 nations recognized for doing “great things for the advancement of the universal mail service.”4

    A Harvard professor reportedly suggested that the architects add the inscription spanning the building’s facade, quoting Herodotus: “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.”5

    The statement originally referred to mail service in ancient Greece, but its inclusion in the building’s design made it an unofficial motto of the U.S. Postal Service.

    Inscription and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Inscription and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York

    A portion of the building is still used as a post office, but the bulk of the structure now houses the Moynihan Train Hall, which opened in 2021.

    The demolition of Penn Station is often cited as the event that launched the historic preservation movement in the United States, and the dark, dank, subterranean maze of low-slung corridors that replaced it is entirely unworthy of one of the world’s great cities.

    Although that unnavigable mess still exists, the conversion of the former post office into a modern train hall has restored much-needed prestige to New York’s landscape, and it’s encouraging to see such a fine building put to a worthy new use.

    Gallery

    Looking at the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Looking at the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Cornice and Corinthian capital on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Cornice and Corinthian capital on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Inscription on the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Inscription on the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Inscription on the southeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Inscription on the southeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Fourth-floor windows, inscription, and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Fourth-floor windows, inscription, and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Third-floor window on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Third-floor window on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Looking at the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Looking at the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Fourth-floor windows, inscription, and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Fourth-floor windows, inscription, and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Ornamental crest on the United States Post Office, New York
    Ornamental crest on the United States Post Office, New York
    Corinthian capitals and entablature on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Corinthian capitals and entablature on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Ornamental iron on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Ornamental iron on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Fifth-floor windows on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Fifth-floor windows on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Inscription and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Inscription and Corinthian capitals on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Niche on the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Niche on the northeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Ornamental iron spandrels on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Ornamental iron spandrels on the facade of the United States Post Office, New York
    Columns and front steps of the United States Post Office, New York
    Columns and front steps of the United States Post Office, New York
    Southeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Southeast corner of the United States Post Office, New York
    Front steps of the United States Post Office, New York
    Front steps of the United States Post Office, New York

    Floorplans and Sections6

    First floor plan of the United States Post Office, New York
    Second floor plan of the United States Post Office, New York
    Exterior detail drawings of the United States Post Office, New York
    Interior detail drawings of the United States Post Office, New York

    References

    1. “New York’s New Post Office A $6,000,000 Wonder”. The Sun (New York), March 2, 1913, p. 1. ↩︎
    2. ibid. ↩︎
    3. ibid. ↩︎
    4. ibid. ↩︎
    5. ibid. ↩︎
    6. A Monograph of the Work of McKim Mead & White, 1879-1915. New York: The Architectural Book Publishing Company, 1915. ↩︎
  • Percy Rivington Pyne Residence (1912) – New York

    Charles McKim of McKim, Mead & White. Percy Rivington Pyne Residence (1912). New York.
    Charles McKim of McKim, Mead & White. Percy Rivington Pyne Residence (1912). New York.

    There’s something to be said for a little restraint, as demonstrated by this tasteful 5-story townhouse in the Lenox Hill neighborhood of New York’s Upper East Side.

    Location of the Percy Rivington Pyne Residence

    The home is officially credited to Charles McKim of McKim, Mead & White, but was primarily the work of his assistant, William M. Kendall, who began assuming design duties as McKim’s health deteriorated.1

    Although the plan was first conceived in 1906,2 McKim died in 1909, three years before the project was completed in 1912.

    Cornice on the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Cornice on the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence

    Neo-Federal in style, the Pyne residence balances a simple composition with refined touches, including a richly ornamented cornice, finely detailed corbels, an entrance portico with an elaborate frieze, and a series of blind arch windows on the second floor, one of them filled with marble and topped by a sculpted garland in its lunette.

    Yeah, I’m pulling out all the pretentious architectural terms.

    Dormers on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Dormers on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence

    My favorite part of the home’s design is the set of three dormers across the front roof — one of these things is not like the others.

    It’s New York, so a Sesame Street reference felt appropriate.

    Third-floor window on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Third-floor window on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence

    The stately Pyne Residence looks more like something you’d find in Washington, D.C., and easily blends into the background if you’re rushing down Park Avenue (and who isn’t?). Only on close inspection does the home’s subtle elegance reveal itself.

    When McKim, Mead & White’s successors planned the Oliver D. Filley Residence next door in 1926, they wisely continued the same scale and design.

    Gallery

    Portico on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Portico on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Blind arch window on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Blind arch window on the east facade of the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Corbels on the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence
    Corbels on the Percy Pyne Rivington Residence

    Elevations, Sections, and Floorplans3

    References

    1. White, Samuel G. The Houses of McKim, Mead & White. New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. (1998), p. 234. ↩︎
    2. ibid. ↩︎
    3. A Monograph of the Work of McKim Mead & White, 1879-1915. New York: The Architectural Book Publishing Company, 1915. ↩︎
  • Cable Building (1893) – New York

    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. The Cable Building (1893). Greenwich Village, New York.
    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. The Cable Building (1893). Greenwich Village, New York.

    The Cable Building is one of my favorite New York structures, mostly because I have fond memories associated with it, including the quiet Thanksgiving morning when I took the picture shown above.

    Completed around late 1893, this 8-story steel-framed building1 includes a full basement and fronts on Broadway, Houston, and Mercer Streets on the border of Greenwich Village and NoHo.

    Location of the Cable Building

    The Cable Building was designed for the Broadway & Seventh Avenue Railway Company by Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White,2 and is a very early example of the Beaux-Arts style.

    The building’s exterior was originally faced with Indiana limestone on the first and second floors, and the upper floors are covered in yellow brick and striking ornamental terracotta,3 topped by an elaborate copper cornice.

    Southeast corner of the Cable Building, New York
    Southeast corner of the Cable Building, New York

    Each floor encompasses nearly 20,000 square feet4 and encircles a central light court of more than 3,000 square feet.5 6 At its opening, the building’s first floor was designated for retail use, with the top three floors designed for offices and the middle floors reserved for warehouse space.7

    My favorite part of the exterior is the classically-inspired sculpture of two robed women guarding the portico on the east facade, designed by J. Massey Rhind.8

    J. Massey Rhind. Sculpture on the east facade of the Cable Building, New York.
    J. Massey Rhind. Sculpture on the east facade of the Cable Building, New York.

    With that being said, the building’s overall design isn’t White’s best: the chamfered corners temper the appearance of bulkiness and provide interesting focal points, but the many large windows on every side of the structure clutter the composition, making it look messy and overwrought.

    What makes the Cable Building impressive, however, is that it was designed to conceal a power plant for the street railway company, effectively creating “a building within a building”.9

    Reaching 46 feet below the street surface,10 the building’s basement originally housed 550 tons of machinery that powered the company’s cable cars, including wheels measuring 32 feet in diameter and weighing 50 tons each.11

    Cornice on the Cable Building, New York
    Cornice on the Cable Building, New York

    The machinery has long since been removed, and today the Cable Building’s deep bowels house the Angelika Film Center, where there’s a chance you may find me some late evening, watching an indie flick as nearby subway trains rumble past.

    Gallery

    Cornice and terracotta ornamentation on the Cable Building, New York
    Cornice and terracotta ornamentation on the Cable Building, New York
    Chamfered corner bay on the facade of the Cable Building, New York
    Chamfered corner bay on the facade of the Cable Building, New York
    Fifth and sixth-floor windows on the Cable Building, New York
    Fifth and sixth-floor windows on the Cable Building, New York
    Terra cotta keystone and stringcourse on the Cable Building, New York
    Terra cotta keystone and stringcourse on the Cable Building, New York
    Stringcourse, pilaster, and terracotta ornamentation on the Cable Building, New York
    Stringcourse, pilaster, and terracotta ornamentation on the Cable Building, New York
    Arched window on the sixth floor of the Cable Building, New York
    Arched window on the sixth floor of the Cable Building, New York
    Double windows on the third floor of the Cable Building, New York
    Double windows on the third floor of the Cable Building, New York

    References

    1. “The Cable Building.” The New York Times, December 19, 1893, p. 9. ↩︎
    2. Baker, Paul R. Stanny: The Gilded Life of Stanford White. New York: The Free Press (1989), pp. 213-14. ↩︎
    3. “The Cable Building.” The New York Times, December 19, 1893, p. 9. ↩︎
    4. ibid. ↩︎
    5. ibid. ↩︎
    6. “A Model Building.” The Independent (New York), February 1, 1894, p. 22. ↩︎
    7. “The Cable Building.” The New York Times, December 19, 1893, p. 9. ↩︎
    8. Looking Up: The Cable Building – Village Preservation ↩︎
    9. “Motive Force Of The Cable Cars.” The Sun (New York), November 30, 1893, p. 7. ↩︎
    10. “The Cable Building.” The New York Times, December 19, 1893, p. 9. ↩︎
    11. “Motive Force Of The Cable Cars.” The Sun (New York), November 30, 1893, p. 7. ↩︎
  • Robert Wilson Patterson Residence (1903) – Washington, D.C.

    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Robert Wilson Patterson Residence (1903). Washington, D.C.
    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Robert Wilson Patterson Residence (1903). Washington, D.C.

    The only thing that makes this home’s exterior truly interesting is its unique butterfly shape, designed to conform to its site overlooking Washington D.C.’s Dupont Circle.

    Location of the Robert Wilson Patterson Residence

    Otherwise, it’s fairly standard for Stanford White’s later work, with an overwrought mishmash of Renaissance-inspired details that appears fitful and fussy, akin to the cluttered walls of an old art gallery. However, the marble and limestone construction is quite exquisite on close observation.

    White claimed the design had a “light and rather joyous character”.1 I’m not sure about joyous, but I can go along with light, as the abundance of windows in the structure gives it an airy feel, particularly when the sun hits all five sides of the facade.

    Ornamentation on the Robert Wilson Patterson Residence
    Ornamentation on the Robert Wilson Patterson Residence

    The home was built at the same time as White’s partner, Charles McKim, was designing the nearby East Wing of the White House, which…is no longer with us.

    The Patterson Mansion is currently occupied by short-term rental units, and I hope to stay in one at some point in the future — preferably when D.C. is no longer occupied by madness. God knows when that may be.

    Third-floor balcony on the Robert Wilson Patterson Residence
    Third-floor balcony on the Robert Wilson Patterson Residence

    References

    1. White, Samuel G. The Houses of McKim, Mead & White. New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. (1998), p. 212. ↩︎
  • Henry Cook and Payne Whitney Residences (1907) – New York

    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Henry Cook Residence (1907, left) and Payne Whitney Residence (1907, right). New York.
    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Henry Cook Residence (1907, left) and Payne Whitney Residence (1907, right). New York.

    You’d be forgiven for thinking these two homes overlooking Central Park are actually one. Stanford White (or his assistants, more like it) designed the residences simultaneously, cladding the exteriors in elegant white Vermont granite and matching them with the same stacked Classical orders.1

    Location of the Henry Cook and Payne Whitney Residences

    They aren’t my favorite projects by McKim, Mead & White: the firm’s work had become quite derivative by 1907, and the designs here feel overprocessed, as if sketched and refined by too many different hands. It doesn’t help that White was murdered before the homes were completed.

    What makes this pair of structures important, though, is that they are among the handful of old mansions that survive in New York. Built too late for the Gilded Age, they were nonetheless conceived in its shadow — remnants of an era that will never return.

    Elevations2

    References

    1. White, Samuel G. The Houses of McKim, Mead & White. New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. (1998). ↩︎
    2. A Monograph of the Work of McKim Mead & White, 1879-1915. New York: The Architectural Book Publishing Company, 1915. ↩︎
  • Washington Square Arch (1891) – New York

    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Washington Square Arch (1892). Greenwich Village, New York.
    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Washington Square Arch (1892). Greenwich Village, New York.1

    Location of the Washington Square Arch

    Elevation and Section2

    References

    1. “The Last Stone Is Laid.” The World (New York), April 6, 1892, p. 10. ↩︎
    2. A Monograph of the Work of McKim Mead & White, 1879-1915. New York: The Architectural Book Publishing Company, 1915. ↩︎
  • Jackson Square Library (1887) – New York

    Richard Morris Hunt. Jackson Square Library (1887). Greenwich Village, New York.
    Richard Morris Hunt. Jackson Square Library (1887). Greenwich Village, New York.1 2

    References

    1. “Given By a Millionaire”. The World (New York), July 5, 1888, p. 1. ↩︎
    2. Renovating: A Strange House and Its Strange Story ↩︎

  • Judson Memorial Church (1893) – New York

    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Judson Memorial Church, Sanctuary and Campanile (1893, 1896). Greenwich Village, New York.
    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Judson Memorial Church, Sanctuary and Campanile (1893, 1896). Greenwich Village, New York.1 2 3 4 5

    Serious photographers (whatever the fuck that’s supposed to mean) despise reflection shots, but I’m kind of a sucker for them.

    This puddle in Washington Square provided me with the best image I’ll likely ever get of Judson Memorial Church, built in stages between 1891 and 1896.

    Location of the Judson Memorial Church

    The church is a quirky, free-wheeling design by Stanford White that combines elements from numerous Renaissance-era Italian cathedrals, all cobbled together with rich textures and finely detailed ornamentation.

    White’s eclectic compositions didn’t always work, but this one is exquisite and charming, and the church has become one of New York’s most distinctive landmarks.

    Main Entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Main Entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York

    Gallery

    Looking at Judson Memorial Church from the east
    Looking at Judson Memorial Church from the northeast
    Looking at Judson Memorial Church from the west
    Looking at Judson Memorial Church from the northwest
    Windows on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Windows on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Main entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Main entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Gable on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Gable on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Windows on the east facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Windows on the east facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Round windows on the west elevation of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Round windows on the west elevation of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Looking up at the campanile of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Looking up at the campanile of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Window on the east facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Window on the east facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Cross on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Cross on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Campanile of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Campanile of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Dormer windows on the north elevation of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Dormer windows on the north elevation of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Cornice on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Cornice on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta string courses on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta string courses on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Blind arch on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Blind arch on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta string courses on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta string courses on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta pilaster capital on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta pilaster capital on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Windows on the east facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Windows on the east facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta ornamentation on the entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Terra cotta ornamentation on the entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Window spandrel on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Window spandrel on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Corinthian capital on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Corinthian capital on Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Ground-floor and basement windows on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Ground-floor and basement windows on the north facade of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Decorated corbel and Corinthian capital at the main entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Decorated corbel and Corinthian capital at the main entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York
    Looking at Judson Memorial Church from Washington Square Park, New York
    Looking at Judson Memorial Church from Washington Square Park, New York

    Detail and Section of Main Entrance6

    Detail and section of main entrance of Judson Memorial Church, New York

    References

    1. “The Judson Memorial.” New-York Daily Tribune, February 8, 1891, p. 19. ↩︎
    2. “Judson Memorial Church.” The New-York Times, January 23, 1893, p. 3. ↩︎
    3. “Judson Memorial Dedication.” The Sun (New York), January 30, 1893, p. 5. ↩︎
    4. “Sitters In Washington Square.” The Sun (New York), May 30, 1895, p. 6. ↩︎
    5. Judson Memorial Church: A Convergence of Arts and Service | National Trust for Historic Preservation ↩︎
    6. A Monograph of the Work of McKim Mead & White, 1879-1915. New York: The Architectural Book Publishing Company, 1915. ↩︎

  • Bowery Savings Bank (1895) – New York

    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Bowery Savings Bank (1895). New York.
    Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White. Bowery Savings Bank (1895). New York.1 2 3 4 5 6

    The Bowery Savings Bank is a significant early work in the Classical Revival style, credited to Stanford White of McKim, Mead & White.

    Following their monumental buildings of classical inspiration for the World’s Columbian Exposition in 1893, the firm entirely embraced Roman and Renaissance influences in their designs, ushering in the Beaux-Arts movement that dominated American architecture for decades.

    Location of Bowery Savings Bank

    By the time of White’s death in 1906, the firm’s work had become increasingly derivative and dreary, but this structure was designed early enough to retain some of their initial flair for quirkiness and originality: the front doors set slightly off-center within a recessed arch, for instance.

    Built in the shape of an L with granite and Indiana limestone, the Bowery Savings Bank has two entrances, neither of which resembles the other — a larger side entrance on Grand Street, and the smaller, more interesting Bowery side shown here.

    It appears the building was largely designed by Edward P. York, then White’s assistant, who also supervised its construction. York would later become a founding partner in the architectural firm of York & Sawyer.7

    Ever the playboy, in the mid to late 1890s, White increasingly delegated his work to others while he indulged in a lavish lifestyle of excess and consumption — it didn’t end well for him.

    Elevation8

    References

    1. A Monograph of the Work of McKim, Mead & White 1879-1915, Volume 1. New York: The Architectural Book Publishing Co. (1915). ↩︎
    2. “The Bowery Savings Bank’s New Building.” New-York Daily Tribune, February 14, 1893, p. 11. ↩︎
    3. “Another Handsome Bank Building.” New-York Daily Tribune, February 15, 1893, p. 3. ↩︎
    4. “Financial Announcements.” The New-York Times, June 24, 1894, p. 14. ↩︎
    5. “Bowery Bank’s New Building.” The World (New York), June 27, 1894, p. 6. ↩︎
    6. “Bowery Savings Opens New Home”. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (New York), June 22, 1923, p. 22. ↩︎
    7. Bowery Savings Bank Building – Landmarks Preservation Commission ↩︎
    8. A Monograph of the Work of McKim, Mead & White 1879-1915, Volume 1. New York: The Architectural Book Publishing Co. (1915). ↩︎

  • The Cathedral of All Souls (1896) – Biltmore Village, Asheville, North Carolina

    Richard Morris Hunt. The Cathedral of All Souls (1896). Biltmore Village, Asheville, North Carolina.
    Richard Morris Hunt. The Cathedral of All Souls (1896). Biltmore Village, Asheville, North Carolina.1

    References

    1. History & Architecture — The Cathedral of All Souls ↩︎